Apple Pies, Apple Butter and Apple Syrup

Apple PieWhat does one do with 3 1/2 bushels of Minnesota grown apples, consisting of a combination of Harrelsons, Cortlands and Regents? What you do is invite a group of good friends over to spend the day making pies, apple butter and syrup, throwing in a lot of laughter along the way. We did just that recently at Bret’s Table. The apples came Minnesota Harvest, an orchard in Jordan, Minnesota.

Everyone arrived about 11:00am on a recent Saturday morning. After a couple of cups of freshly brewed coffee and some freshly baked biscuits we all got down to work, peeling what seemed like a couple of hundred apples. We used a combination of all three varieties to make the pies and apple butter. Also, so as not to waste anything, the cores and peels were simmered with some water and cooked down with spices and honey to make Apple Syrup.

Our friend Julie, brought her grandmother’s pie dough recipe. It is one that has been replicated via oral tradition as much as anything else. Sure there’s an ingredient list, but having Julie demonstrate how she learned to make the dough from her own Mom was a tremendous advantage.

Apple Pie SliceThe method goes against everything I’ve learned about making pie dough. In her recipe the lard is room temperature, not cold. The sugar and salt are dissolved in cold tap water (not ice water) along with a beaten egg and a little apple cider vinegar. I learned after the second batch that my hands were just too warm to mix the ingredients by hand, so I resorted to a pastry cutter to blend the lard with the flour and used a fork to mix the wet ingredients into the dry. Still being a somewhat wet dough, a generous amount of flour is used to roll the dough out to the appropriate pie pan size. My suggestion would be to use your favorite pie dough recipe.

For the filling we used 2 pounds of apples, 1 cup of granulated sugar, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves, 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice and a pinch of salt. Depending on the size of your pie pan, this was enough to fill two pies.

Apple pies freeze beautifully prior to being cooked. Therefore, if you’re going to make one, go ahead and make a second the pop one in the freezer to be baked off later. Better yet, invite a couple of friends over and have a pie making party.

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Community Giving Campaign

We had a little contest at work last week. We were asked to incorporate “Goulish Goodies” with the themes of the organizations that, as a company, we were supporting.

Here’s a picture (taken with a camera phone) of what I created. If you can make it out, it is all made out of sugar cookie dough and tempered chocolate. There are leaves, acorns, a poor man with a broken arm and leg holding rake and the house is the office of the Red Cross.

I used the butter cookie recipe that I have posted on my website. It was a lot of fun to make and for a good cause. For what more could you ask, right?

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Caramel Candies with a Twist

I spent a recent Sunday afternoon testing different caramel candy recipes that I had found on the internet and in cookbooks. While doing so, I was sitting here at the kitchen island, staring at a very large bottle of Saporoso balsamic from Modena, Italy, that I had purchased not too long ago.

Every recipe at which I looked had some amount of vanilla extract. Nowadays even Karo syrup contains “real” vanilla. Why in the name of candymaking did they go and do that? Even the generics have “real” vanilla added. What if one doesn’t want vanilla in the finished product?

Anyway, I thought to myself since the Karo already has vanilla, I’ll switch out the remaining amount of liquid for the balsamic at which I was staring. I did just that and -wow- what a great depth of flavor it added to the finished product! It also cut the tooth-achingly sweetness just a bit.

Other recipes called for one can of condensed milk. I cooked the contents of one can in a pan of boiling water for 3 hours with the results being dulce de leche. I then took 1/2 cup of the cooled dulce de leche and added it to the caramel as soon as it reached a temperature of 248 degrees Fahrenheit. By happy coincidence this stopped the cooking temperature enough to kept the caramel at the “firm ball” stage (candymaking parlance).

The results of my tinkering are published on the PastureLand website as this month’s featured recipe.

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Raspberry and Passion Fruit Mousse Cake

Raspberry and Passion Fruit Mousse Cake

Friends Jennifer, Kevin and I get together occasionally at Bret’s Table to cook, what some would say are complicated desserts. That wouldn’t be my definition. We just cook whatever looking fun and interesting. Most recently we have been testing various French Macaron recipes, some with more success than others. To date though, we haven’t found one that is a consistent winner.

We are beginning to wonder why we are having so many failures. Is it the recipe or are we baking them off during the wrong phrase of the moon? Are we beating the batter too much or too little? Given our frustration, can I just say that French Macarons are finicky little buggers! Our quest though, is due to the fact that the first time Jen and I made them they turned our perfectly. I think it’s called beginners luck! Every time since then something goes haywire; the foot doesn’t form, they’re hollow, they don’t rise, etc. They’re frustrating to be sure, but a delectable treat we have pledged to master one of these days.

In the meantime, we needed to take a break from the macaron disasters and decided to try our hand at baking a Framboise et fruits de la passion Gâteau Mousse. This is a cake that Jen learned to make while attending the Le Cordon Bleu in Paris a few years back. We got started on the cake at Bret’s Table on a recent Saturday afternoon, stopping ever so briefly to nosh on some spicy guacamole from Whole Foods and enjoy a delicious fresh heirloom tomato salad and duck rillettes while sipping a couple of glasses of wine. Okay, maybe that’s why it took upwards of 5 hours to prepare, bake and assemble the cakes.

The recipe is not quite ready for publication, as omissions were found, particularly in the “la méthode”. Actually “omissions” is an understatement as recipes at the Le Cordon Bleu, if I remember, have only the ingredient list. The students are responsible for writing the method based on what they are shown by the chef instructor. Jen was kind enough to retype the notes she had taken in class but as we discovered time away from the recipe had caused some lapses in technique. It’s nothing we couldn’t solve, but will require some tweaking of the written word when we get together to bake it again.

Regardless, I wanted to share a picture of our first attempt. I’ll post other projects as we do them. Until then, thanks for pulling up a chair at Bret’s Table.

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Time out for Sushi!

Of all the places in the world, who would have thought that one could find excellent sushi in Little Rock, Arkansas? To my pleasant surprise that’s just what happened on a recent but unexpected trip to Jon’s home state.

It had been a long week on the road via planes, trains and automobiles; eating way too much junk food. Jane and Michael Stern’s RoadFood.com couldn’t even provide us with relief by recommending any good diners between Jacksonville and Orlando, Florida nor between Little Rock, Arkansas and Shreveport, Louisiana.

Jon’s cousin, Sissy, suggested this place called Sushi Cafe. It not only serves sushi, but rib-eye steaks, rack of lamb, and burgers as well. I was a bit skeptical. We arrived about 8:00 pm and were greeted by a friendly enough fellow, standing outside, who welcomed us in and had a place for us at a booth. We even had a bird’s eye view of the sushi bar.

Given our state of mind, we immediately asked if the bartender knew how to make a Side Car. He had never heard of such a drink, but was willing to give it a shot as he had all the ingredients; Grand Marnier, Courvoisier, simple syrup, fresh lemon juice and sugar (for the rim). Giving him the recipe, we sent him off to attempt this classic libation. Our attentive server came back moments later with a respectable rendition. It was tasty enough that I suggested that it should be added to their cocktail menu.

Blue DragonWhile we were enjoying our drinks and pondering the menu, we noticed a beautiful plate of food at the sushi bar. Our inquiry confirmed that the vision we had was indeed Tuna Tartare, or as the menu stated, Hawaiian Fusion Big Eye Tuna Tartare, $13. It looked too gorgeous not to order, so we did just that! Plus since I am teaching a Sake Pairing class coming up at the end of the month at Cooks of Crocus Hill, and one of the recipes will be a Tuna Tartare Napoleon, it was research.

Arriving at our table it was a beautiful sight to behold: exquisite in color and texture. However, with three of us having forks, it was devoured in short order. “Wait, wait, what was the sauce again?” I asked. Oh nertz, too late!

We are also suckers for soybeans; this time it was an order of Spicy Edamame, $5 with soy ginger, hot sauce and chili flakes. They were a spicy treat and another recipe I may have to add to my sake class.

The website of the Sushi Cafe touts over 180 menu creations and I believe it, reading over their extensive menu. We ended up ordering a variety of specialty maki rolls; including a Rainbow (California topped with tuna, salmon, snapper, and yellowtail), a Blue Dragon (coconut shrimp, cabstick, cream cheese, kiwi on top with a sweet chili vinaigrette), Kamikaze Roll (grilled eel, crabstick) and a Cowboy (mango, New York Strip). If the Kamikaze and Cowboy roll seem a little, sparse — it’s because I lost the maki menu and these two rolls are not on their website. I did email the cafe asking for the ingredient list, but never heard from them… sorry!

Anyway, my question is why did the tuna, salmon, snapper, etc., taste so good? It doesn’t seem possible that getting those fish in Little Rock can be any faster than getting them in Minneapolis. Regardless, every morsel was delicious and a welcome respite from funeral hot casserole (hot dish here in the north country). So if you ever find yourself in Little Rock, Arkansas and need your sushi fix, be sure to check out the Sushi Cafe. It Rocks! Sushi Cafe, 823 Kavanaugh Blvd, Little Rock, AR, 72207. (501.663.9888).

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PastureLand brings back Meadowlark!

Goodhue, MN – (September 18, 2009) – Following their success at the American Cheese Society’s August competition, and the announcement of two ribbons for their cultured, Summer Gold butters, PastureLand Cooperative announces the return of Meadowlark, a memorably hearty and buttery, cloth-wrapped cheddar.

We originally introduced Meadowlark as part of the Eat Local Challenge in the fall of 2008, and we wanted to bring it back this year to herald the flavors of late summer, and to celebrate the time of year when we in Minnesota really can eat locally,” said PastureLand farmer and founder, Dan French.

“Supple, with strong notes of wood, pine and grass. A slight hint of blue gives the cheese a certain minerality that lingers on the palate” were some of the glowing comments at Slow Food Minnesota’s 2008 tasting where Meadowlark made its debut.

In his “Atlas of American Artisanal Cheese”, cheese maven Jeffrey P. Roberts called Meadowlark “firm and buttery”, and points to PastureLand as “another example of how small family farms are linking traditional values and stewardship with innovative entrepreneurship to produce good-tasting food through sustainable practices.”

Many have already delighted in the “now that’s how it’s supposed to taste” flavors of grass-fed dairy products. Now, new research is pointing to direct health benefits from eating grass-fed dairy products. Pastured dairy and cheese naturally provide a more beneficial balance of Essential Fatty Acids – and vitamins A, C, and E – than are found in conventional dairy foods.

PastureLand is a Minnesota family-farm cooperative of certified organic (MOSA), grass-based dairy farms. The co-op members take pride in their ability to provide the high quality pasture necessary for healthy dairy herds to produce these beautiful butters and cheeses without having to supplement the cows’ diet with grain. PastureLand cows are never confined to barns or feedlots.

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Mac&Cheese, The Real McCoy, plus Veggies!

Jon planted a row of rainbow Swiss chard in the garden. It has been unbelievably prolific this summer. It’s great sautéed with some garlic or on the bottom of a quiche.

I decided, however, to layer some sautéed leeks as well as some of the sautéed chard between macaroni noodles and cheese. PastureLand Summer Gold butter as well as PastureLand Gouda and Sharp Cheddar cheeses are the star of the show in this updated yet recognizably classic dish. Check out the recipe at PastureLand Co-op.

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Come with me on a Culinary Tour of a Lifetime!

Kitchen at La PitchouneYou’ve seen the movie now travel to the place where the incomparable Julia Child wrote “Mastering the Art of French Cooking – Volume II”. Experience the extraordinary beauty of Provence relaxing on the terrace of La Pitchoune, her former home, with an aperitif. Enjoy lunch that you’ve prepared in the kitchen that inspired her. Take all this in during a culinary tour led by Bret Bannon of Bret’s Table.

Your destination is a classic Provençal-style farmhouse with a tiled roof and painted shutters; nestled on a hillside amongst olive and cypress trees and vineyards, overlooking Grasse and the village of Placassier just north of Cannes and the lights of Monte Carlo and the Côte d’Azur. Guests walk away with more than just cooking classes but with a knowledge of Provençal cooking and lifestyle.

Most mornings are set aside for “in-the-kitchen” cooking instruction taught by the current proprietor, Kathie Alex, and interspersed with lessons and excursions to an open air market, cheese and butcher shops and 2-star hotel restaurant kitchens.

After lunch each day, guests have the opportunity to continue soaking in the life and culture of Provence either on their own or through tours around the countryside led by Bret Bannon, a self-professed Francophile and longtime cooking instructor at COOKS of Crocus Hill in Minneapolis and Saint Paul, Minnesota.

The tour will take place in June 2010. The cost is $3650.00, which includes double-occupancy lodging, each bedroom with a private bath at La Pitchoune. A welcome dinner the first evening, all breakfasts, lunches, and planned tour excursions are also included.

The tour is limited to six people providing an intimate hands on experience. Make plans now to come to Provence next summer.

Please contact me if you have any questions or go to my La Pitchoune webpage for more information.

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