If It’s August, It Must be Time for Sweet Corn!

August 10, 2009    |    Print Print

I created four compound butter recipes using Pastureland butter. They are simple to make and delicious not only your grilled corn on the cob, but other vegetables as well or that rib-eye steak! Check out the recipes and how to perfectly grill fresh corn at www.Pastureland.coop.

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Heading Back to the City!

July 19, 2009    |    Print Print

(Note: For the complete story of our New York adventures, scroll down to July 2)

Sunday arrived too quickly and we had to say our goodbyes to Suvir, Charlie, Vibhuti, and all the animals. After spending more than 20 minutes figuring out how to program Hertz Rental Car’s version of GPS, amusingly called “Never Lost,” we waved goodbye and headed back south to New York City.

As we approached the outskirts of Manhattan, we called to return our car, only to be told that it was rented for another two days and if we wanted to turn it in early, it would cost an additional $400. We weighed all our options and bravely decided to drive into Midtown. Jon figured that if he could drive in Paris, he could handle traffic in New York City.

Central Park FountainRemember Hertz’s “Never Lost” GPS system? It didn’t work exactly as the name implies. We ended up going across the RFK Bridge more than once, unexpectedly ended up in Brooklyn, viewed the Statue of Liberty, and drove through Chinatown. Of course every time we drove across the bridge, we knew where we were and, consequently, where we didn’t want to be. Finally, we got our bearings and arrived at the Sheraton Towers (7th Ave and 53rd St), only two hours behind our anticipated arrival time.

Suvir had given us a list of things to do and see while in Manhattan, but all we wanted was a hot shower and to find someplace for a relaxing dinner. We ended up at Cucina di Pesce in the East Village via a quick Google search. I’m still not sure why we ended up there; I attribute it to a combination of the power of website design and being very tired and hungry. Let’s just say Cucina di Pesce is not a place I would visit again.

Balthazar RestaurantMonday morning, though, we made our way to Balthazar (Spring & Broadway) for a delightful breakfast. We started off with big bowls of steaming café au lait and house-made doughnuts. I, of course, had to see how their doughnuts stacked up against mine. Having received unbiased opinions from both Jon and Joe, they determined that mine are better.

Jon had his usual eggs over easy with a side of bacon. Joe ordered two soft boiled organic eggs with “soldiers” (little slices of toast). I was the most daring in my breakfast selection with two tender buckwheat crêpes stuffed with fluffy scrambled eggs, meltingly-smooth Gruyère and a mesclun salad.

After breakfast, we walked through Little Italy and over to Chinatown. Chinatown looked very familiar, then I remembered we were there the day prior when we were lost. From there, we took the train up to the New York Public Library and walked up Fifth Avenue and through Central Park to 72nd.

We had dinner reservations Monday evening at Dèvi, where Chef Hemant Mathur spoiled us with the seven course Chef’s Tasting Menu. It was three hours of pure dining bliss.

Devi RestaurantOf course, we had to try the Manchurian cauliflower, as Suvir has demonstrated that recipe several times when he taught classes here in Minneapolis. The preparation tasted a little different than what have cooked here. We concluded that Hemant probably used a different ketchup.

Other highlights from the dinner include the melt-in-your-mouth Grilled Scallops with Roasted Pepper Chutney and Bitter Orange Marmalade, and the Tandoor-Grilled Lamb Chops with Pear Chutney and Southern Indian Potatoes.

I think we tasted every dessert on the menu and then some. My favorite was the Black Forest Cake, perhaps because I got Jon’s bite (he is allergic to coconut).

If you ever got to New York, Dèvi is a must-stop, even if you are only in the city for 24 hours.

It was up early for our drive to White Plains (thanks, Delta, for changing our flight; we flew into JFK and out of White Plains). It was a long day with flight delays in both White Plains and Atlanta (yes, Atlanta). We finally made it home safe and sound and are already planning to visit America Masala some time this winter to keep Charlie and Suvir company during the cold, dark winter in upstate New York. It’s kind of like the cold, dark winter in Minnesota, so why not spend it with good friends?

Here’s the list from Suvir of what to see and where to eat in New York City in no particular order:

Museum of Natural History (Upper West Side)
Rose Planetarium for “Journey to the Stars”
Takashimaya department store (Fifth Avenue)
Bergdorf Goodman (Fifth Avenue)
Ino Restaurant (Bedford Street @ Houston & 6th Ave)
The Frick Collection (5th Ave & 71st St)
Nice Green Bo (off of Mott St at 6th & Bayard) for dim sum
China Town Brasserie (Lafayette St)
Mandarin Oriental (in the Time Warner Center) for drinks at the bar

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Our visit to the farm: American Masala

July 5, 2009    |    Print Print

(Note: For the complete story of our holiday to New York, scroll down to July 2)

Our dear friends Charlie and Suvir live somewhere between Salem and Hebron, New York on a 60+ acre farm that they have named American Masala. It’s out in the sticks, as far away from NYC attitude as one can get and perfect for total unwinding and relaxation.

From our guest house, we could hear the goats and sheep out in the pasture carrying on a conversation with each other. The roosters were our alarm clock, sounding off at the first light of day. Luckily we could roll over for a few more hours of dreamland. Wandering into their spacious farmhouse kitchen, one can peer out of the window over the farm sink to watch the geese swimming in the pond with the ducks waddling across the yard.

I headed directly to the Francis, Francis for an Illy cafe au lait. This is such a great ma chine! You can still be half asleep and make yourself a fabulous cup of coffee. After the second round of coffee, we’d make breakfast using the delicioius heritage eggs from the ladies in the coop. The 80 gals only lay about 3 dozen a day. With these eggs, it’s all about the flavor and the continuance of a nearly endangered species. There’s nothing better than fluffy scrambled eggs or omelets using organic eggs.

Also, the whites of organic eggs whip up higher and the taste is unmatched by any egg from a conventional egg factory. Allen Brothers supplied the steak cut bacon. This company out of Chicago smokes pork belly over an open applewood fire for a full 24 hours, then traditionally cures it. Check out the Allen Brothers website. They have Suvir’s famous meatloaf for sale.

The Fourth of July, found us standing mainstreet side watching the parade in Salem. There were beauty queens, antique cars, vintage tractors, cowboys on horseback, a WWII WAC named Agnes and of course a cow (Mabel I think) pictured there on the right. As every fire truck in the neighboring counties passed by at a mile an hour we thought, “Sure hope there’s not a fire anywhere in the area.”

One day we stopped for a bite to eat at Bob’s Lunch. Some mighty fine burgers where had by all as well as sweet potato and Idaho fries, onion rings, and tater tots. I should have had a chocolate malt, or at least a piece of mixed-berry pie, but I was stuffed. Oh and the owner is actually named Rodney; Bob’s Lunch is named after his father.Mabel the Cow

We also had the pleasure of meeting Charlie and Suvir’s friend Vibhuti Patel. What a delight to meet someone who has written for Newsweek magazine for some 28 years and has traveled the world.

Our visit was way too short as we were only at the “farm” from Thursday afternoon to Sunday morning. From there we headed back to NYC as Joe had never been to the city.

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Dinner at the Escoffier

July 3, 2009    |    Print Print

(Note: To read from the beginning of our adventures, scroll down to July 2).

The first evening of our holiday to upstate New York, we made reservations at the Escoffier. It’s one of the restaurants at the Culinary Institute of America, also known as the CIA.

Between the five of us, we had quite few of the choices that were offered on the menu including the following:

Pate with Poached PearsTerrine de Foie Gras a l’Armagnac, Ratafia de Poires, Brioche Toastée
Duck Liver Terrine, Port Poached Pear, Toasted Brioche

Petite Salade de Mâche et Endives a la Fourme D’Ambert Vinaigrette a l’Huile de Noisettes Lamb’s Lettuce, Belgian Endive and Blue Cheese Salad, Hazelnut Vinaigrette

Salade de Coeur d’Artichauts, Champignons, Crevettes, Truffes et Haricots Verts Petites Laitues de Saison, Vinaigrette a la Moutarde Petite Salad of Artichokes, Mushroom, Shrimp, Truffles and String Beans Seasonal baby Lettuces, Grain Mustard Vinaigrette

Gratiné de Coquille Saint Jacques, Purée de Céleri et Pommes de Terre
Sea Scallops au Gratin, Celery Root and Potato Purée

Cassolette de Petits Gris au Chablis, en Croûte Baked Provençale Snails in Puff Pastry

Filet de Bar en Bouillabaisse, Fumet Safrane, Aïoli et Rouille Black Bass Filet Bouillabaisse Style, Safron Fumet, Garlic sauce Duo

Ris de Veau aux Champignons Sauvages, Roquefort, Pâtes Fraîches Braised Veal Sweetbreads, Seasonal Wild Mushrooms, Fresh Fettuccini

Filet Mignon de Bœuf au Poivre Vert, Pommes Sarladaise Filet Mignon of Beef, Green Peppercorn Sauce, Scalloped Truffled Potatoes

Duo d’Asperges Mousseline White and Green Asparagus, Mousseline Sauce
I’m not sure how I missed a photo of the braised artichokes.

Artichauts à la Barigoule Braised Artichokes, Mushrooms, Prosciutto Ham
By the time we got to dessert, we’d had one too many glasses of wine and were running out of time.

Julie and Dean had to get back to the train station for the trip back to NYC. Unfortunately, that second cup of French Press coffee forced them to miss the 10:00p train and they had to wait at the station until 11:00p….. oops.

Glace Maison à la Noix de Coco et Poivre Rose Tarte Tatin aux Ananas Pineapple Upside Down Tart with Coconut and Pink Peppercorn Ice Cream

Bananes Flambées au Rhum (Pour Deux) Bananas Foster

After the feast.

Tomorrow Jon, Joe and I head to our friend’s Charlie and Suvir’s farm. It’s called American Masala.

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Headed to the Farm with Stops along the Way!

July 3, 2009    |    Print Print

Jon, Joe and I arrived at JFK airport yesterday where Eric picked us up and took us to Grand Central Station (GCS). We found Eric’s Car Service (Drive NY) via Craig’s List. He was very professional and actually less expensive than a taxi. Plus it was a much more comfortable ride.

After meeting up with friends at GCS we headed to Grand Central Market where an outpost of Murray’s Cheese Shop is located. We purchased some fines cheeses, charcuterie (can’t get enough sausage having now taken a class) and a great bottle of Pinot Noir (screw top variety , since airport security still does not allow corkscrews) for the train trip to Tarrytown., NY. From there we rented a car and headed up to Duchess County.

GPS led us to Millbrook Vineyard & Winery for a vineyard tour and wine tasting. Afterward it was a quick trip to our Econo Lodge in Poughkeepsie for 5 minutes of R & R as we had 7:30p dinner reservations at the Escoffier Restaurant, part of the Culinary Institute of America campus.

Even though the restaurant is run by students (and that evening they happened to be less than 24 hours from graduation) the dinner and entire experience was top notch.

Looking out over the Hudson River, the CIA was a former Jesuit Seminary. Having gone to college at a Benedictine Seminary, it’s no wonder that a campus such as this feels so familiar.

Check back to see what we enjoyed for dinner and how we spent the rest of the week.

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Fundamentals of Charcuterie – The Final Cure!

June 27, 2009    |    Print Print

Turkey PastamiTurkey Pastrami

It’s amazing how fast the month of June has gone by. I shouldn’t be surprised, as I took a charcuterie class at Saint Paul College. It was held Monday through Thursday, from 6:00p – 9:00p, for the first 4 weeks of June.

Part of the final week included a couple of projects for each team. These included a preparation for pork belly. Each team was also given a “Black Box” of ingredients.

Seafood Sausage

Our team used the pork belly in two preparations. For the first preparation, we cut the belly into 1 x 3 inch pieces, placed it in an oven proof pan, tucked black peppercorns, thyme sprigs and bay leaves in around the pork, and covered it with warm duck fat. Then it was cooked, covered for about 2 1/2 hours at 275 degrees. After it was cooked, it rested under refrigeration overnight. The next day, I deep fried it in canola oil and served it with a grainy mustard and a dollop of orange marmalade. It was absolutely delicious!

Terrine PlatterOur “Black Box” of ingredients included a veal tenderloin, a rabbit and sweetbreads. We cured the tenderloin and rabbit, then cooked the rabbit the same way as we cooked the pork belly, in duck fat.Rabbit and Veal Terrine, Pickled Summer Squash, a Bretonne-Style Terrine.

We layered a terrine mold with the remaining bacon. Then, using the other ingredients, we fabricated a layered terrine. It also included dried figs and apricots that had been reconstituted in Sauternes. For a first attempt using rabbit and sweetbreads, it turned out quite good I think.

Overall, the class was a tremendous experience. I would recommend anyone who has an interest in charcuterie to sign up for the class next year, as Chef Sartin is planning on offering it again.

The school is also kicking around the idea of offering a couple of week-long classes with topics including Pasta Making and Fabricating Pastries and Sweet Breads. I’ll be the first to sign up for one or both of these classes next summer as I had such a great experience.

Smoked Pheasant CrostiniSmoked Pheasant Crostini

This fall, the restaurant associated with the culinary school will be open again to the public. Running this restaurant offers students a hands-on experience in both the back and front of the house. Chef Sartin will let me know when the restaurant opens and the hours of operation. I’ll pass on the information via my blog as soon as I get it.

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Charcuterie Class – Stuffin’ Casings

June 21, 2009    |    Print Print

We finished week 3 of our Charcuterie class at Saint Paul College. It’s being taught by Chef Nathan Sartain. This week, we ventured into the realm of salt-packed sheep casings. This product needs to be soaked in water and rinsed inside and out before it can be utilized.

If I thought that hog casings were easy to breach, stuffing sheep casings took some getting used to, as they are even more delicate. For all the teams, it was full steam ahead making sausages.

Some of the many varieties that we fabricated included a Lamb Merguez for which I made a harissa condiment which was added to it. Our team also finished the Moroccan Pheasant and dried Apricot sausage, and made some Squash Pickles. In addition to this, we smoked off our Portuguese Linguica. We started curing a rabbit and veal tenderloin for making a terrine next week. These were two of three products that we were given to construct an “item” as part of our final. My partner and I decided that the final “item” would be a Confit of Rabbit and Veal Terrine. We were also given a slab of pork belly which we will also confit, then sear and serve with possibly a rabbit demi glaze.

Other teams last week made a Char Siu Lop Chong. The Lop Chong is a BBQ Style Pork Sausage which is smoked for 30 minutes.

Black Forest HamThey also made a breakfast sausage and Tuscano, Toulouse, and Spanish Longaniza sausages. We enjoyed the Black Forest Ham, the Spicy Italian Sausages with grilled bell peppers and onions, and a Cajun Gumbo with the Andouille that was finished last week.

Sadly, there is only one more week of this class. I have learned so much and now have a stockpile of recipes to try this fall and winter.

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Charcuterie Class – Smokin’ Knackwurst

June 11, 2009    |    Print Print

It’s the end of Week 2 of the Charcuterie Class that I’m taking at Saint Paul College, Saint Paul MN. We spent the week honing the skills that Chef Sartain demonstrated in Week 1. I for one need more practice stuffing sausage casings. Who knew there were so many nuances to get meat into a semi permeable membrane?

For instance, I would have never thought to lube the plunger of the sausage stuffer with food release spray to prevent friction. Friction causes heat which is our enemy at this stage of the game. Then there’s packing the meat filling into the reservoir in such a way as to prevent air pockets. You’ve got to get the casings on the stuffing tube, again without air pockets, and then get the meat into the casing without a “blow out” and without creating more air pockets. If air pockets do occur, you’ll get what is called “fat-capping”. This is where droplets of fat pool together just under the casing, resulting in poor mouth feel. And, it’s all about mouth feel and eye appeal!

This week, our team ground up more than 20 pounds of boneless leg of lamb. We used a portion to make a Lamb and Rosemary Sausage with fresh Garlic and Grana Padano. We also made Mortadella, an Italian sausage with pistachios Bresaolaand black peppercorns. We grilled some Kielbasa and overhauled our Bresaola. We prepped half a dozen or so pheasant breasts for making a Moroccan Pheasant Sausage. We’ll confit the legs in duck fat for a terrine next week.

Some of the items the other teams have processed included a Mexican Chorizo, spicy Italian Sausage, Knackwursts (which we smoked), English Bangers, Alsatian Sausage, and Wisconsin-Style Bratwursts.
Bologna
Team Four is working on Boudin Blanc, a fine–textured white sausage originally eaten at Christmas in the Champagne region of France. The moist sausage is traditionally a fine mixture of meat, eggs, starch, spices and milk or cream. We’re using rice in our application during class.

Next week, we’ll be working on Linguica, a Portuguese sausage with Paprika, garlic and port, amongst other aromatics. We’ve also got, among other items, a Duck Liver Mousse and Proscuitto, Foie Gras Terrine, Pate de Campagne Parisienne and Sopressatta di Calabria to make next week.

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