Fundamentals of Charcuterie – Makin’ Bacon

The Professional Pastry Association, of which I am a member, recently held a Wine and Dessert Pairing class at the Saint Paul College, Saint Paul, MN. Tucked in the seminar brochure was a handout listing the summer classes being offered in the culinary school at the college.

I really enjoy making patés and terrines and I definitely enjoy sausage, so the class that caught my eye was entitled “Fundamentals of Charcuterie.” I wanted to see if I could replicate in any way the flavor of the sausages that I enjoyed when tasting those smoky links at a market in I’lsle sur la Sorgue. This town is in the south of France and one that we visited during our most recent trip across the pond.

This delightful town lies at the foot of the Vaucluse plateau in the plains of Comtat Venaissin. We were there on market day (okay we were actually there twice — once on our way to Avignon and then on our way back to Paris). Anyway, I digress.I'Isle sur la sorgue

The charcuterie class at the college started June 1. It is being taught by Chef Nathan Sartain. We meet four nights a week, three hours a night, for four weeks. Chef Sartain has been stuffing and smoking sausages for about 13 years and after having finish our first week, I know the class is in capable hands.

Our first evening was spent learning about dry cures and wet cures (brining) and believe it or not, how amino acids and peptides interact with salt and sugar. We also learned about the need to record the weight of the protein prior to dry curing and then weighing it again near the end of the estimated curing time. The finished weight determines if the product has been properly cured and ready to enjoy.

We started curing pork belly for bacon, crafting Bresaola, Finnocchiona (Tuscan-Style Salami), Gruanciale, Pancetta and Tasso. We’ll use the Tasso to make Jambalaya a little later in the series. We also started a Bologna and Capocollo Cotto.

If the next three weeks are anything like this first week has been, the class will be a great success. Oh, and I hope to blog on the Dessert and Wine Pairing class that I took recently some time in the future.?

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Canning Season is about to Start!

I’ve been frantically eating the pepper relish, apple butter, and sweet and dill pickles that we put up last year to make room for these year’s harvest. We’ve just about finished the tomato sauce and paste as well. They were great to have in the freezer to spread on pizza dough and for making spaghetti sauce. The peaches we blanched and froze have been delicious in the peach tarts I’ve made. I’ve been experimenting with a couple of recipes, making various custards and adding fresh cheese to the mix.

Here’s a recent article from the New York Times to get your imagination going with all the things that can go into a sterilized jar.

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Macarons, Take Four!

Friends, Kevin and Jennifer came over to Bret’s Table on a recent Saturday to try our hand again at making French Macarons. We’ve attempted various recipes now more than half a dozen times on our own and as a group.

In our latest attempt, the Italian Meringue version failed twice so we decided to scrap that method all together. Instead, we focused our testing on the sifted almond flour/confectioners sugar folded into French Meringue method.

We haven’t perfected any of the recipes that we have tried, but we are getting closer to our goal of a delicious cookie that has its characteristic “foot” is crunchy on the outside and chewy on the inside. I’ll keep you posted on our progress.

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Buttermilk Panna Cotta with Mango Compote

My cooking segment aired on Showcase Minnesota on Monday, April 20, 2009.

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Showcase Minnesota

I’ll be demonstrating how to make a Buttermilk Panna Cotta on Showcase Minnesota. The spot will be sometime between 10:00a – 11:00a, Monday, April 20 on KARE 11. This recipe is a variation of the dessert I will be serving at my upcoming Sake Class in May at Bret’s Table.

In case you missed the segment, I’ll put a link on the Press page of my website.

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Whoopie Pies

We are all jumping on the “back-to-basics” bandwagon, which seems to be a good direction to be heading. So when I saw this recipe in the New York Times, it had my name on it. The story goes that when kids discovered this chocolate treat in their lunch boxes, they would yell in delight, “whoopie”. The distant related southern cousin, I suppose, is the moon pie which come to think of it, should be a future recipe from Bret’s Table.

There was another reason I decided to make this yummy dessert. I had 2 quarts of chocolate-mocha buttercream frosting in the freezer from my Bûche de Noël marathon. It was begging to be eaten; plus I needed make room for a few pounds of Pastureland butter and the chicken stock I had made recently.

Here are a few things I learned from recreating this recipe.

Buttercream holds up just fine in the freezer for 3 ½ months. Just bring it to room temperature; then whip it in the bowl of a stand mixer with the whisk attachment until light and fluffy again.

A one tablespoon ice cream scoop is plenty big for scooping out the batter. Due to the smaller scoop, one can get as many as 12 pies from one recipe.

If one doesn’t have buttermilk in their refrigerator, adding one tablespoon of fresh lemon juice to a scant cup of whole milk, really does produce buttermilk.

Thinking the batter might spread too much, I placed it in the refrigerator for approximately one hour before scooping it out. As the first pan baked, I left the remaining batter out of the fridge. I determined that it didn’t really matter whether the batter was cold or at room temperature. Both batches puffed up equally in height.

This recipe is adapted from the recipe in the New York Times which was adapted from Zingerman’s Bakehouse, Ann Arbor, Michigan.

For the Cakes:
¼ pound (1 stick) butter, at room temperature
1 cup light brown sugar
1 large egg
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 ¼ teaspoons baking soda
1 teaspoon sea salt
2 cups all-purpose flour (I used unbleached)
½ cup cocoa
1 cup buttermilk (or 1 scant cup whole milk and 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice)

For the cakes: Preheat oven to 350ºF. In a mixing bowl, using the paddle attachment of stand mixer, cream together the butter and brown sugar. Add the egg and vanilla extract and beat until light and creamy. In a separate bowl, whisk together the baking soda, salt, flour and cocoa. Add dry ingredients to butter mixture in three parts, alternating with buttermilk, and combining well after each addition.

Using a one tablespoon ice cream scoop or a spoon, scoop out 24 mounds of batter and place about 6 inches apart on a parchment or silpat-lined baking sheet. Bake until tops are puffed and cakes spring back when touched, 12 to 14 minutes. Remove from oven and cool completely before filling.

For the Chocolate Mocha Buttercream:

1 pound unsalted butter, softened
7 ounces granulated sugar
2 ½ tablespoons water
½ tablespoon light corn syrup
2 eggs
1 egg white
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
3 ounces sweet dark chocolate, melted with 2 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon instant espresso powder
1 tablespoon rum or brandy

Cream the butter until light and fluffy. Set aside. Dissolve the instant coffee in the liquor, cover and reserve.

Combine the sugar, water, and corn syrup in a saucepan. Boil to 240ºF, brushing down the sides of the pan with water. Do not stir.

While the syrup is boiling, in a clean bowl of a stand mixer using a wire whisk, whip the eggs, egg whites, salt, and vanilla on low speed, just to combine. Remove the syrup from the heat, wait about 10 seconds, and then gradually pour the hot syrup into the egg mixture, adding it in a steady stream between the whip and the side of the bowl, with the mixer at medium speed. Increase to high speed and whip until just barely warm.

Reduce to low speed and gradually mix in the reserved butter. Quickly beat in the cooled chocolate and the instant coffee/liquor mixture. Use immediately or place in an airtight container and chill for up to 3 days or freeze in an airtight container.

For assembly: Using an ice cream scoop, spoon or pastry bag, place 1/4 cup buttercream on flat side of each of 12 cakes, spreading it to edges. Top filled half with another cake to sandwich the buttercream. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days, or wrap individually and freeze for up to 3 months.

Yield: 12 pies.

Whoopie Pies on Foodista

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Pâtes de Fruits – French Fruit Jellies

It was restaurant week recently in the Twin Cities. Carolyn, Joe, Jon and myself were fortunate to secure a table at the Chambers Kitchen. It’s located on two floors of the Chamber’s Hotel in downtown Minneapolis. We enjoyed a delicious dinner which ended with a trio of tasty treats including tiny French macarons, house-made marshmallows and pâtes de fruits.

Remembering that my friend Zoë François posted on her blog three recipes for these petite jellied fruits that burst with flavor, I decided it was high time I tested her recipes. Knowing that I had Meyer lemon and peach juice in the freezer and fresh rosemary and thyme in the fridge, in two grocery store stops I had the Certo liquid pectin and pure grapefruit juice. (It was 2 stops as the first store didn’t have the Certo.)

The flavor combinations I used were Meyer Lemon-Rosemary, Peach-Thyme and Grapefruit-Vanilla Bean. Another flavor combination that I think would be out of this world would be Grapefruit-Tellecherry peppercorn. I can report that Zoë’s recipes worked beautifully. There’s no reason to re-type the recipes here. You can follow her step-by-step directions right from her site under

I discovered too, that any pâtes that are not rolled in sugar can be stored in an air-tight container in the refrigerator for at least two weeks. (That’s how long it took me to get back to them to take a photo!)

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Chocolate-Mascarpone Tart

Chocolate Mascarpone TartHere’s another recipe from Laura Werlin’s, “The All American Wine and Cheese Book”. This time chocolate is paired with the Italian version of cream cheese called mascarpone [mahs-kahr-POH-neh(nay)]. It hails from the Lombardy region and can be made as a double or triple cream cheese from cow’s milk.

The trickiest part of this recipe is ensuring that crust is pressed firmly into the tart shell. The only liquid per se is the water from the melted butter so it won’t hold together on it’s own. Keep pressing the almond mixture, first all the way around the sides, then press the “dough” into bottom of the tart shell.

For The Crust:
2 cups (10 ounces) whole almonds with skins, toasted and cooled
Scant ½ cup (4 ounces) packed dark brown sugar
4 tablespoons (2 ounces) unsalted butter, melted

For The Filling:
8 ounces mascarpone cheese, softened
? cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
3 tablespoons cocoa powder, sifted
½ cup heavy cream
About ¼ ounce semisweet or milk chocolate

Preheat oven to 350ºF.

To make the crust: In the bowl of a food processor, process the almonds and sugar together. Pour in the melted utter and pulse until incorporated.

Press the mixture into a 9-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom. Bake for 15 minutes, or until the crust has turned a slightly darker shade of brown. Remove from the oven and let cool completely.

To make the filling: In the bowl of a stand mixer, or in a large bowl using a hand mixer, beat together the cheese, sugar, and vanilla until smooth. Turn the mixer to low and add the cocoa powder.

Mix until creamy, about 1 minute. In a separate bowl, whip the cream until stiff peaks form. Gently fold the whipped cream into the cheese mixture and stir just until the ingredients are blended. Pour into a prepared crust and, using a vegetable peeler, shave the chocolate over the top of the tart. Freeze for at least 2 hours.

To serve, let the tart sit at room temperature for 10 minutes and then cut. After serving, return the remaining tart to the freezer. Wrapped well, the tart will keep for up to 2 weeks in the freezer.

Serve this scrumptious tart with a chilled Prosecco.

Photography by David Paul Schmit

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