Happy 4th, Indeed!

What a delight too not only spend another 4th of July with good friends Suvir and Charlie at their farm American Masala,  but having my Mom and brother join Jon and me for the weekend at the farm in upstate New York was a treat.

Waking at 5:00 am, our friend Carolyn picked us up and shortly thereafter Jon and I were off to MSP for a crack of dawn departure.  Going through security, TSA did a double take with the five pounds of self-rising flour and quart of fresh green beans from the garden that were in my carry-on.

American Masala Farm

We made our way to gate B17, which if you’ve ever flown from that gate, it’s practically at Fort Snelling; it’s that far out.  We waited and waited to board with more waiting involved and still no coffee.  Then there was the announcement stating that we were waiting for the flight crew.  I was thinking to myself, “they couldn’t have over-slept; could they have over-slept?  We’ve got to get going or we’ll miss our connecting flight and then Mom and Kevin will be waiting for us…and I didn’t want that to happen.”

Come to find out the crew had papers to arrive at another gate. Luckily, they arrived soon, we boarded the puddle jumper and off we went to Cincinnati.  We made our connection and set down in Albany, New York about 12:30 pm.  While we waited for Mom and Kevin, Jon secured the rental car so that we could get out of town as soon as they arrived.

About two hours later we turned onto Chamberlain Road.  I knew then that we were within yards of a piece of heaven.  Charlie and Suvir greeted us with a warm welcome as did the geese, ducks, and goats along with their Blue Tick, Aisha and Sebastian their Labrador (I think he’s a Lab, but I’m not up on my dog breeds.)  Poor Sebastian though, had a lamp shade around his head due to a recent surgery.  He seemed to be taking it all in stride. Or maybe it was just too hot to move.

After a rest from our travels, we gathered in the kitchen to start cooking dinner.  The green beans came out of the suitcase and I was in charge of washing, snapping and blanching them.  These would later be sautéed with some garlic in olive oil and butter and topped with a little sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.  Suvir got to work on the steak au poivre and confit of red potatoes.  What is a confit of potatoes you ask?  These are potatoes that have been blanched, dried, covered with oil to which has been added some fresh herbs and a bulb of garlic.  They are then simmered in the oven for about an hour and come out tender, crispy and delicious.  It goes to show you that you can confit anything.  It just means cooking something slowly that is covered in fat!

By this time, Suvir’s friends Bill and Holly arrived with their daughter Carmen.  Come to find out Holly grew up in Collegeville, near Saint John’s University (SJU), where I went to graduate school.  Her sister owns/owned Kay’s Kitchen in Saint Joseph, MN and another sister used to teach cooking classes at Cooks of Crocus Hill.  Talk about a small world!  Oh and by the way, Holly attended The College of Saint Benedict for a time; the woman’s college near SJU.  Bill and Holly both work now at the C.I.A. in Greystone.  Needless to say, there would be a lot of foodies around the dinner table.

Herb Garden

The new arrivals relaxed while Jon jumped in setting the large farm table in the dining room with silver, glasses, and colorful napkins from India.  With Charlie out of commission, Holly fetched a bottle of red from the wine room and we sat down to a wonderful dinner that began our weekend at American Masala.

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A Pinch of Salt!

Chef’s rarely if ever use table salt for any number of reasons including the fact that they cannot pick it up with their fingers.  And, you’d never find a line cook reaching for a measuring spoon!  They keep a stash of salt in a bowl of some kind and always have it at hand to season and give life to what they may be cooking.

With salts now being harvested throughout the world, each with their own distinct flavor, there is now available a beautiful vessel to store and them close at hand.  For anyone who has been to Bret’s Table, you may have noticed such a box, made of oak and always sitting near the cook-top.  It’s my salt box handcrafted by my brother Kevin.  Kevin has always been great with his hands and for many years has used that talent as a full-time electrician.  In his spare time he built himself a workshop to construct and refinish furniture.

Knowing his talent with wood and my love of cooking, I bugged him for years to construct for me a salt box that had three compartments so that my various flavors would be close at hand.  He finally came up with a design that has compartments large enough  that one can easily retrieve a pinch of salt with their fingers or if baking, spoon out a teaspoon for a favorite cookie recipe.

Over the holidays, our dear friend, Chef Suvir Saran was visiting and noticed the box.  He immediately fell in love with it and begged Kevin to make him one as well.  From there a business was born.  Kevin now constructs boxes made from oak and cherry wood; with one to three compartments – they can be rectangle or round and all made by hand.

Below are just a few examples that he constructs.  If you would like purchase a box or need more details about these wonderful kitchen vessels please contact Kevin directly at srkban04@hotmail.com.

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Lèche-Vitrines – Window Shopping

From what I understand, lèche-vitrines literally means “to lick the window,” even though it is generally translated to mean “window shopping”.  I like “to lick the window” or “licking the window” better.  This is something we did quite a bit of while we were in France.  Whether it was in front of a pâtisserie, chocolatier, or a realty office (Jon’s always looking for property to purchase in France), we left many a window needing to be cleaned due to our nose prints being left on them.

It’s no secret that friends of mine and I have spent quite some time perfecting our French macaron baking skills. Therefore, every chance I get I am admiring and tasting these delectable little confections.  It is probably for the best that I have never kept count of how many I’ve eaten in a single day.

Once again, I was on a chocolate hunt for the best to be found in Paris.  Jon swears two years ago, I actually purchased the chocolate-covered frommage from Jean-Paul Hévin.  Of course, I don’t remember making such a purchase.  Or, was it that I just wanted to return for another taste of chèvre, Roquefort, or thyme-infused frommage, each enrobed in the finest of chocolates?  Then with Mother’s Day just around the corner (at that time), what would be more fitting for Mom then a stiletto made entirely of chocolate?

Fortunately, I didn’t have the same experience David Lebovitz had at Hévin back in 2006.  He was told by the salesperson that pictures could not be taken until after a purchase was made.  Not that I attempted to take any photos, but they were at least pleasant.  Maybe the marketing or HR department of Hévin  read David’s blog!

We were strolling along Rue Cler on a Thursday and just happened to receive a phone call from our friend Alison. She knew of my obsession with chocolate and directed us to our latest must-go-to destination near the Tour de Eiffel:   Michel Chaudun, 149 Rue de l’Université, (in the 7th).  What a delightful gentleman he is!  But, I was thinking to myself, it will be a very sad day when M. Chaudun retires.

He didn’t speak any English, but he was charming, engaging, and was delighted to share an assortment of chocolates with us.  I’m so glad Alison sent us his way, as his chocolates were as divine as his shop with its chocolate sculptures including a beautifully ornate Easter egg, replicas of a couple of sausages, and Nefertiti’s head in white chocolate.

If one is not up to cooking on a particular evening and you happen to live in nor are visiting Cannes, one’s choice of deli fare is far from mundane.  There are numerous, glorious options such as a roasted tomato tart, spicy roasted sardines, seafood pate in aspic, or a Salade Niçoise to go along with your vin de mason.

Also, from what I understand, very few folks in France bake desserts. Why would you with something like this raspberry tart ready to be plucked from this pastry window?  If you do ever have the urge to cook pastries, it’s amazing what is available in the supermarket:  items such as fresh (not frozen, mind you) all-butter puff pastry and tart crusts ready to be set on a pan or lined in a tart pan and baked.

Now that I’m looking through all my photos, I’m disappointed at the limited number that I actually took.  I suppose I was doing more window-licking then picture taking at the time.  There’s always next time though…

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Taking a Break from Vacation Pictures

Jon, once again, has outdone himself planting the vegetable garden. The weather was unseasonably warm in April and he got a little ahead of himself getting everything in the ground. Then in typical Minnesota fashion, we had a cold snap in May, topped off by a week or so of rain. Consequently, some of the bean and the squash seeds rotted and therefore had to be replanted as did the Rainbow Swiss Chard. A squirrel or some darn varmint really took a liking to one of the tomato plants. It looked as though something was using it as a springboard. Needless to say, we’ve had to replace that one plant three times.

We have six different tomato and five different sweet pepper varieties, as well as various squash and cucumber varieties. I’m looking forward to making lots of tomato paste and pepper relish come August.

The beans are coming in nicely. We cannot wait for that first tender harvest to blanch then sauté with fresh garlic and olive oil.

The garlic scapes are about ready to harvest as well. I’m thinking I’ll sauté these then add them to a frittata. Generally, garlic is harvested in July, but with all the warm weather, we may be digging up the bulbs before then. I probably should ask the Garlic Man at the Saint Paul Farmer’s Market what he thinks the garlic harvest will be this year.

The first crop of French radishes has been harvested. Wash and trim, then slice them into fourths halfway down the center. Place in ice water for about an hour or so. When ready to eat, remove them from the water and shake off to dry. Have a small dish of your best sea salt and butter ready to go. Spread a little butter on the end of the radish and dip in salt. These are delicious with an aperitif!

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Forville Market in Cannes

We were up bright and early Wednesday morning and queued-up  for a caravan to Cannes.  If we didn’t leave by 8:00am we’d be stuck in the morning computer traffic.  This time we all made it to the designated parking garage without anyone getting lost or accidentally ending up on the A8.  Cars in the parking garage are packed in like sardines, but we find spots relatively close to each other and head up towards the market.  First though, we stop at a patisserie by the name of  PAUL which is very near the market.

Another reason not to be late is the fact that our selection of scrumptious goodies like a buttery Chausson aux Pommes, Pain au Chocolat, classic Croissant or maybe a Tart au Citron would be limited.

The young man behind the counter carefully wrapped up our treasures and we made our way to the opposite end of the block for our Café Long, Espresso or Café au lait.  Generally, one doesn’t take pastries from one shop to enjoy at another, but Kathie has been visiting these two establishments for many years, so she and her students are granted the exception.

After breakfast we head down the street stopping at a couple of butcher shops and a little establishment that specializes in all things foie gras.  We then pop over to the actual “farmer’s market” where Kathie introduces us to various farmers and the fisherman’s wives who are selling their spouses daily catch. We have time to purchase some artisan cheese, some fabulous olives or another pastry for immediate sustenance or to enjoy later.

From the market we all head down a walking street with Kathie stopping at various storefronts specializing in food — of course.  She  points out how each egg is marked with a date and serial number and how the poultry also has a serial number so that any mishap of illness can be traced back directly to the farmer.  We stop at one of the best cheese shops in Cannes which has been owned by the Ceneri family for many years to pick out half a dozenor so wonderful varieties for a cheese lesson and tasting one evening.

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Cooking at La Pitchoune

The week of cooking classes began with a welcome dinner.  The first Sunday, Kathie and I prepared a typical Provençal apéritif.  An apéritif is both a social occasion along with food and drink to whet your appetite.

This particular Sunday, the apéritif included sausages, French radishes served with butter and fleur de sel, and olives from La Pitchoune.  It is an occasion for friends and neighbors to get together before lunch or dinner to catch up on the local gossip before heading off to enjoy our meal.

For dinner, Kathie and I prepared a Puree of Potato and Leek Soup, Turkey Osso Bucco and Poached Pears for dessert. Lunch and dinner are always served with a baguette and if you’re lucky enough, a glass (or two) of wine.  After dinner, stepping onto the terrace and looking beyond the pool surrounded by flowers and herbs in the front lawn, one could see the twinkling of lights from the villages perched on the hills.

On Monday morning, after a breakfast of warm croissants, freshly squeezed orange juice and coffee with warm frothy milk, we began our first cooking class at 9:30am.

It was a menu that included Amuses Bouches de Saumon Fume aux Herbes de Provence (Smoked Salmon and Herbes de Provence Appetizers); Timbale de Courgettes (Molded Zucchini Custards); Saumon en Papillote avec Sauce aux Herbes (Salmon in Parchment Paper with Herb Sauce); Risotto Simca’s style; and Crèmes au Citron Meringuées (Lemon Curd and Meringue Cups).

We again had our aperitif before lunch then sat down at the dining room table about 12:30pm for a 2 hour lunch. After class, students were free to explore the countryside with some going to Fragonard (the perfume factory in Grass) or setting out for Monaco, Antibes, or Nice.

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Travels to the south of France

Kathie didn’t have any students when we arrived therefore our first Saturday morning started with freshly baked croissants. These were served with delicious, creamy butter and crocks of apricot and and homemade fig jam.  I enjoyed the freshly brewed coffee with steamed milk and a couple of cubes of raw sugar. While we were enjoying our petit déjeuner,  Kathie began telling stories of how she met Simone (Simca) Beck who later assisted in obtaining an apprenticeship (or stagiaire) at Roger Vergé’s Michelin three-star restaurant, Le Moulin de Mougins. After that she trained under various chefs at the Mondavi Winery’s Great Chefs of France Cooking School and worked with Michel Richard before moving to France back in 1985.

Around 10:30am, we headed down to Antibes and walked through the old city. Kathie showed us where she used to live as well as the location of the best patisserie in town. We ended up chit-chatting as we looked at the yachts docked in the bay.

We enjoyed a delightful lunch at a 1 star Michelin restaurant called  Le Figuier de Saint-Esprit. There’s a fig tree growing in the atrium and it’s located on Rue Saint-Esprit just down the street from the cathedral, thus the name.  Kathie worked with Christian Morisset who is now the chef and co-owns the restaurant with his wife.

Stuffed Foie Gras

Stuffed Chicken Breast with Spring Vegetables

Apple Tart Tartin and Mango Sorbet

I enjoyed Foie Gras, Stuffed Chicken with Spring Vegetables with a Pâté en Croûte along side it, and a scoop of Mango Sorbet and Apple Tart Tartin for dessert.  Not a bad way to start my vacation in the south of France.

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From Nice to La Pitchoune

Updated…

Kevin and I left Minneapolis on a Thursday evening  and arrived at the Nice airport via Amsterdam the next day about noon.  After collecting our luggage, we found our way to the SIXT car rental. With a “Bonjour” from us and a “Hello and welcome to France” in response,  the delightful sales assistant upgraded us to a BMW sedan.   This was our second experience with this car rental. I would highly recommend them if you are ever traveling to Europe as we have had exceptional customer service both times.

After more than a few minutes attempting to figure out the GPS, Kevin returned to the office to ask for personal assistance to figure out how to get the blasted thing to work. We thought we had it figured out, but then proceeded to drive immediately into the airport parking garage.  Around we went in the garage only to follow the SORTIE signs to get out. Finally, off we went following the A8 signs for the auto-route. Needless to say the GPS was not much help and we ended up finding our directions the old fashioned way, via a map — you know, those paper things that fold out into the size of a dining room table?

With a few U-turns at various  roundabouts, we finally made our way to Bramafam (which means braying donkey) and up the drive to La Pitchoune. We were met by the Shetland ponies, Mr. Donkey of course, the ducks and geese.  Having been to La Pitchoune before, it was like coming back to the summer cottage much like Julia and Paul might have done during the many years they visited Bramafam.

The wisteria growing over the terrace was in full bloom and the pink rose vines overtaking the columns near our bedroom door were just starting to bud out.  Even with the large amount of snow (by Provence standards) that fell last winter, the rosemary and thyme shrubs didn’t seem fazed, as they were full of tiny blue blossoms.

We settled in to our room, which by this time was nearly 4:00 pm. I so much wanted to crawl into bed as I was exhausted, but I resisted as the best way to get on local time is to follow a regular sleep pattern.  Instead, Kevin and I explored the property, checking out the olive and almond trees, lavender bushes, with Kathie pointing out to us the bay laurel tree.  I purchase bay leaves in those plastic claim shells for $2.99 a piece. Kathie has a  tree that is about 10 feet tall.

We enjoyed aperitifs later in the evening, followed by pizza that Kathie had ordered.  Then, it was off to bed after a very long couple of days.

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