Vichyssoise with a Twist

Makes about 12 cups (3 quarts)

This recipe is a variation of one from Food & Wine magazine and can easily be cut in half depending on how many folks you are serving and the portion for each person. I made it ahead of time and took it to enjoy at a friend’s cabin as a first course. It was easy to transport in a small cooler along side the frozen shrimp, cocktail sauce, and bloody mary mixer we also enjoyed that weekend.

2 large (10-ounces) leeks
2 -3 garlic cloves, or to taste, chopped
2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste
¼ cup unsalted butter (2 ounces)
4 cups lower-sodium vegetable broth or chicken broth, preferably homemade
1 cup water, or as needed
1 pound Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and chopped (about 2 1/2 cups)
1 medium zucchini, ends removed and chopped
1 ripe avocado
1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg (optional)
1 cup heavy cream
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Garnishes – you’ve got options
Minced fresh chives
Chopped fresh parsley
Chopped fresh dill fronds
Garlic croutons
Shaved pecorino Romano cheese

Trim and discard root ends and the dark green tops, reserving the white and light green parts of the leeks. Cut leeks in half lengthwise, then cut into ¼-inch slices. Add them to a large bowl of cold water swishing them around to dislodge any dirt that may be lurking inside the leaves. Carefully lift the leek slices out of the water, leaving the grit behind. (You should have about 7 cups sliced leeks.)

Melt butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add leeks and a pinch of salt, cook, stirring often, until leeks are softened but have not caramelized, about 7 minutes. Add the chopped garlic and continue to cook until softened, about another minute.

Add broth, potatoes, and water to cover. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer, uncovered, until potatoes are almost tender, about 25 minutes. Add chopped zucchini and continue to cook. Peel and chop avocado, add to leek mixture. Continue to cook for another 5 minutes or until potatoes and zucchini are tender. Remove from heat and add grated nutmeg (if using) and allow to cool about 10 – 15 minutes.

Working in batches, ladle the leek mixture into a blender. Place lid on blender leaving a bit of a gap to allow steam to escape. Place a clean towel over the lid and process each batch until completely smooth.

Transfer puréed soup to a heatproof bowl and add the cream. Refrigerate, uncovered, until completely cold, then transfer to lidded containers and continue refrigerating at least 4 hours or up to 3 days.

When ready to serve, remove soup from refrigerator. Add additional salt and pepper to taste. Ladle desired amount evenly among bowls. Garnish with any of the suggestions.

Make Ahead 
Any remaining soup can be frozen for a month. The day prior to serving, thaw in the refrigerator overnight. Add a bit of cream or cold water to the desired consistency and serve.

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Bruschetta with “Mashed” Pea Spread and Chèvre

 

Having returned from my local farmer’s market with a bag each of sugar snap peas and cherry tomatoes, I decided to whip up a plate of bruschetta, riffing on a recipe from bon appétit magazine. The original recipe calls for 2 cups/pounds of peas. I started shelling the fresh sugar snaps and realized very quickly that I’d never end up with 2 cups.

Instead, I used a 10 ounce bag of Sno Pac frozen peas I had stashed in the freezer. I also blanched a handful of the fresh sugar snaps thinking I needed to make up some of the 2 pounds called for in the original recipe. In the end they weren’t needed, but were totally delicious. Even so, I basically cut the original recipe in half. I’m glad I did or I’d still be eating the “mashed” pea spread.

Mashed Pea Spread
1 garlic clove
2 sprigs fresh flat or curly parsley
1 sprig fresh basil
10 ounces fresh or frozen green peas
Kosher salt
1 cup fresh spring pea pods*
2 – 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, or to taste
1 tablespoon minced fresh chives
Rind of 1/4 preserved lemon, diced, you can add more or less as you like
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice, or to taste
¼ teaspoon piment d’Espelette, or to taste
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper

Marinated Tomatoes
1 pint cherry tomatoes, cut in quarters
2 teaspoons basil, chopped (chiffonade)
2 teaspoons parsley, chopped
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, or to taste
Kosher Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Grilled Bruschetta
1 or 2 baguettes, as you wish
½-1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Other Toppings
4 ounces fresh goat (chèvre) or sheeps milk cheese
Fresh thyme leaves, chopped for garnish
Fresh parsley leaves, chopped for garnish
Aged Italian Balsamic to taste

In a medium saucepan add garlic, parsley and basil stems, peas, pinch of salt and ½ cup of water. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until peas are tender, about 5 minutes for fresh peas and 2 -3 minutes for frozen. Drain, reserving cooking liquid.

*If adding whole fresh sugar snap peas, return the reserved water to the saucepan and cook them for about 5 minutes or until tender, adding an additional 1/4 cup or so of water if needed. Drain the pea pods and reserve cooking liquid.

If using the whole pea pods, transfer them first to the bowl of a food processor. Using the metal “S” blade, pulse until finely chopped. (Note; you will need to scrape down the bowl more than once.) Add the remaining peas, garlic, parsley and basil stems and pulse until a coarse paste forms.

Transfer to a medium bowl, mixing in chives, chopped preserved lemon rind, lemon juice, piment d’Espelette and olive oil to taste. Stir in reserved cooking liquid a bit at a time until mixture is spreadable but still thick. Season the pea spread with salt and black pepper to taste. Set aside.

In another medium bowl, add the quartered cherry tomatoes, basil, parsley, olive oil, salt and pepper. Stir to combine and set aside.

Fire up the grill. While the grill is heating, slice the baguette(s) on the bias in ½ inch slices. Drizzle both sides with olive oil and sprinkle with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Grill the bread slices on both sides until lightly browned.  Remove from the grill.

When ready to serve, spread the goat cheese on the toasts. Top with the pea spread, cherry tomatoes, and fresh thyme leaves. Drizzle with balsamic and serve with a chilled rosé.

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Roasted Fennel Crusted Pork Belly

I jumped on the pork belly craze a few years back and have been experimenting with a variety of dry rubs. Slices of this fennel crusted number is delicious as part of a Ramen bowl or atop a bowl of lentils.

Remember that when selecting a worthy slab, if possible, go for one that has the same thickness thoughout so that it cooks evenly.
1 ½ to 2 pounds pork belly, skin-on
2 teaspoons whole fennel
4 teaspoons kosher salt
2 teaspoons granulated sugar
Freshly ground black pepper

Using paper toweling dry the pork belly. With a sharp knife, score the fat/skin side every ½-inch at a diagonal. Repeat cutting in an opposite diagonal to create a diamond shape pattern. Set aside.

Using a mortar and pestle or a spice grinder, grind the fennel. Mix with salt, sugar, and pepper. Rub the pork belly on all sides. Wrap in food film and refrigerate overnight. When ready to continue remove the pork belly from the refrigerator and preheat oven to 425 degrees F.

Set the pork belly skin/fat side up on a grill pan or a roasting rack. Roast pork belly for 30 minutes on the middle rack. Reduce heat to 275°F and continue roasting for an additional hour or until tender but not mushy. (Larger pieces of pork belly will take longer.)

Remove from oven and let cool to room temperature. Wrap tightly in food film and refrigerate until chilled through – at least a few hours and up to 2 days (this makes for easier slicing). Reheat slices in a sauté pan and serve as desired.

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Classic Italian Pizzelles

These pizzelles are light and crisp. Serve them plain or dusted with powdered sugar. To keep them crisp, store them in an airtight container. Makes between 28 – 30 pizzelles depending on size

1/2 cup (4 oz) unsalted butter, melted and cooled, (don’t use oil as a substitute)
1 3/4 cups (8.3 oz/ 235 g) All-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon ground anise seed or extract (optional)
3 large eggs
3/4 cup (5 oz) granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Set a sieve over a medium bowl and sift together flour, baking powder, and ground anise seed (if using). Set aside.

In a large mixing bowl whisk together eggs and sugar. Whisk in the cooled melted butter, vanilla, and anise extract (if using instead of the anise seed). Switch to a wooden spoon and mix the flour mixture into the egg mixture. Batter will be stiff enough to be dropped by spoon. Batter can also be refrigerated to be baked off later.

When ready to proceed, heat a pizzelle iron until hot (the light goes off on mine when ready). Using a heatproof pastry brush, brush a bit of clarified butter on the top and bottom of the pan. Drop a spoonful of batter onto each side of the iron. (I used a #50 ice cream scoop, about ½ full.)

Close the lid and cook for about 30 seconds (give or take depending on your iron). Using a fork or offset spatula carefully remove to a cooling rack until the pizzelles are cold and crisp.

VARIATION PIZZELLE CON CIOCCOLATTE: Add 3 tablespoons cocoa and 3 tablespoons sugar to the basic Italian Pizzelle recipe. If desired, you may substitute chocolate flavoring instead of the vanilla and anise flavoring.

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Linzer Cookies

Whether it’s cookie, pie or tart dough, I’ve been experimenting with rolling out doughs between parchment paper or plastic wrap as soon as I make the dough instead of forming the dough into a disk. Using either eliminates the need for flour and therefore, the dough scrapes can be rerolled a couple of times instead of traditionally only once.

Because the dough is already pliable, it saves time as I don’t have to wait for the disk to come back to room temperature. I also find that regardless of whether it’s disk form or rolled out, by allowing it to rest in the fridge there’s no shrinkage when baked.

2/3 cup (2.4 oz / 65 g) powdered sugar 
½ cup (2.5 oz / 70 g) almond flour (or blanched and slivered, sliced or whole almonds)
1 cup (5 oz / 140 g) all-purpose flour 
¼ teaspoon kosher salt 
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces and chilled
1 large egg yolk, beaten
1 tablespoon heavy cream 
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
¼ teaspoon almond extract
¾ cup seedless raspberry  or apricot jam

If you don’t have almond flour, in a food processor using the metal “S” blade process the sugar and almonds until almonds are finely ground, about 20 seconds. Add flour, salt, and butter and pulse until mixture resembles coarse meal, 15 to 20 pulses.

In a small bowl whisk together egg yolk, cream, vanilla, and almond extract. Pour over the flour mixture and process until dough just begins to come together. Transfer dough to a counter and using the palm of your hand, smear the dough until it comes together. Divide dough in half and roll each piece out between 2 sheets of parchment paper to a scant 1/8-inch. Leave the dough between the parchment paper, transfer to a half-sheet pan and refrigerate at least one hour or better yet overnight.

When ready to proceed, adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lower-middle positions and heat oven to 375 degrees F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. 

Using 2-inch fluted square or round cookie cutter, cut out cookies and space ¾-inch apart on prepared sheets. Using a smaller cutter, cut out centers from half of cookies. Gather and reroll scraps. Bake until edges are lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes, switching and rotating sheets halfway through baking. Let cookies cool on sheets for 5 minutes, then transfer to wire rack. Let cookies cool completely.

Spread bottom of each solid cookie with 1 teaspoon jam, then top with cutout cookie, pressing lightly to adhere. Let cookies set before serving, about 30 minutes.

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Pimento Cheese Spread

1 tablespoon unsalted butter
¼ medium shallot, minced
½ clove garlic, minced
12 ounces extra-sharp cheddar cheese (don’t use pre-grated cheese)
4 ounces jarred pimento
4 – 5 tablespoons Duke’s, Hellmann’s, or other high-quality store-bought mayonnaise
8 oz full fat cream cheese
Dash Tabasco sauce, or to taste
Dash Worcestershire, or to taste
Kosher Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
½ teaspoon celery salt, or to taste

Heat butter in a small sauté pan. Add the shallots are sauté for a couple of minutes, then add the garlic and continue cooking for another 15 or so seconds. Transfer to a small bowl to cool.

Using the grater attachment of a large food processor, grate the cheese. Remove the cheese to a bowl and switch out the grater attchment for the metal “S” blade.

Return the grated cheese and other ingredients to the bowl of the food processor. Process to your desired consistency. Taste and adjust the flavor to your liking.

Transfer the spread to a glass serving container with a lid. (I used 2 1/2 pint canning jars.) The spread keeps about a week in the refrigerator.

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Preserved Lemon Ghriba Cookie

This is a variation of a recipe from Jesse Szewczyk’s book Cookies: The New Classics. 
Makes about 32 cookies depending on size

2.5 oz or 70 g preserved lemon (about 1/2 of large lemon)
2 1/2 cups (11.25 oz / 390 g) unbleached all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
8 tablespoons (4 oz /115 g) unsalted butter, softened
1 1/3 cups (9.5 oz / 268 g) granulated sugar, divided
2 large eggs, at room temperature
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
3/4 cup (75 grams) confectioners’ sugar

Brush any visable salt from preserved lemon. Taste a bit of the peel to determine if it’s too salty. If so, quickly rinse and drain on paper toweling. Using the tines of a fork remove the flesh from the lemon and chop (you should end up with about 2 tablespoons of finely chopped preserved lemon peel). Set aside. Set a sieve over a medium bowl and sift together the flour and baking powder.

In the bowl of a stand mixer using the paddle attachment, combine butter, 1 cup (7 oz / 200 g) granulated sugar, and chopped preserved lemon peel. Beat on medium speed until light an fluffy. Turn off machine, add flour mixture, and mix on low speed until mixture begins to form a dough.  Stop machine and finish bringing the dough together by hand. Tightly cover the bowl with plastic and chill in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours (overnight or a few days ahead is fine).

When ready to bake off heat oven to 350 degrees F and set the racks at the upper-middle and lower-middle positions. Place confectioners’ sugar in a small bowl. Place 1/3 cup (68 g) granulated sugar into another bowl. Set aside. Line 2 sheet pans with parchment paper and set aside.

Using a small 1 1/16-inch (#100) cookie scoop or 2 teaspoons, portion out the dough and roll into balls. Working with one dough ball at a time, roll in the granulated sugar, then in the confectioners’ sugar. Place the dough balls 2 – 3 inches apart on the prepared sheet pans. Using your fingertip or the palm of your hand slightly flatten into a disk.

Depending on your oven bake both sheets at the same time, swapping the top sheet to the bottom rack and bottom sheet to the top midway through baking. Otherwise, bake one sheet pan at a time on the lower third of the oven until the cookies are puffed, the cracks no longer look wet, and the dough feels soft but resists slightly when touched with your finger 15 – 18 minutes. Let cool on the baking sheets about 10 minutes or until the cookies are firm, then remove to a cooling rack to cool completely.

The cookies will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.

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Orange Blossom Almond Ghriba (Cookie)

 

Makes about 32 cookies if using a #100 scoop.

2/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons (6 oz / 160 g) granulated sugar, divided
2 3/4 cups ( 5.4 oz /300 g) ground almonds
2 large eggs, room temperature
2 tablespoons (1 oz / 30 g) unsalted butter, softened
1 ½ teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon orange blossom or rose water
½ teaspoon kosher salt
2/3 cup (oz/100 g) confectioners’ sugar, for coating

Place 1/3 cup of sugar, ground almonds, eggs, butter, baking powder, orange blossom water and salt in a large bowl and using your fingers or a large wooden spoon (I used a wooden spoon) mix together until you have a smooth and slightly sticky dough. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours or until dough is firm or as long as overnight.

When ready to bake off heat oven to 350 degrees F and set the racks at the upper-middle and lower-middle positions. Place confectioners’ sugar in a small bowl. Place 1/3 cup granulated sugar into another bowl. Set aside. Line 2 sheet pans with parchment paper and set aside.

Using a small 1 1/16-inch (#100) cookie scoop or 2 teaspoons, portion out the dough and roll into balls. Working with one dough ball at a time, roll in the granulated sugar, then in the confectioners’ sugar. Place the dough balls 2 – 3 inches apart on the prepared sheet pans. Using your fingertip or the palm of your hand slightly flatten into a disk.

Depending on your oven bake both sheets at the same time, swapping the top sheet to the bottom rack and bottom sheet to the top midway through baking. Otherwise, bake one sheet pan at a time on the lower third of the oven until the cookies are puffed, the cracks no longer look wet, and the dough feels soft but resists slightly when touched with your finger 15 – 18 minutes. Let cool on the baking sheets about 10 minutes or until the cookies are firm, then remove to a cooling rack to cool completely.

The cookies will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.

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