We Tackled the French Laundry

February 18, 2008    |    Print Print

I was fortunate enough to teach a class full of eager and interested students at Cooks of Crocus Hill recently. The topic being ‘Tackling the French Laundry” based on Thomas Keller’s cookbook titled The French Laundry Cookbook. A couple of students have had the great fortune of eating at his fine establishment in Napa Valley and his restaurant in New York called Per Se.

I haven’t had the opportunity to visit either one but I am totally on board with Mr. Keller’s philosophy of cooking. Here is a short paragraph from his book.

“Cooking is not about convenience and it’s not about shortcuts. The recipes in this book are about wanting to take the time to do something that I think is priceless. Our hunger for the twenty-minute gourmet meal, for one-pot ease and pre-washed , precut ingredients has severed our lifeline to the satisfactions of cooking. Take your time. Take a long time. Move slowly and deliberately and with great attention.”

I enjoyed his book to such an extent that I decided to teach a class based on some of his recipes. They included a Parmesan Cup with Goat Cheese Mousse; Pickled Oyster with Cucumber Cappellini and Caviar; Poached Shrimp with Apple Salsa; Potato Gnocchi with Gorgonzola Sauce and Lemon Sabayon Tart with Pine Nut Crust and Mascarpone Honey Cream.

Many showed interest in having me teach another class. Next time perhaps, it will be a participation class using other recipes from his book.

Below are some photos that one of the students took during class.

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Blackbird Revisited

February 18, 2008    |    Print Print

My dinner companion, David, and I tried to get into Heidi’s, Stewart Woodman’s new bistro named after his wife this past Saturday. Of course without a reservation it was an hour wait.

Since Blackbird, co-owned by Chris Stevens and Gail Mollner, is right next door, at 50th and Bryant, I thought to myself, “I really should give the restaurant another shot.” I wanted to see if I could get past the antlers. I have to say that this time around they didn’t bother me. I guess the first time it was just the initial shock.

We started at the bar with a Bell’s Winter White Ale while we waited for a table. It’s a wheat ale brewed with American Wheat and a blend of Hefe and classic Belgian-style yeasts. Even for me, who really enjoys a dark beer “that you have to chew”, this was quite refreshing.

I don’t know if it was Chris or Gail that made the decision, but we were fortunate enough to catch their extended prix fixe menu from Valentine’s Day for $30 per person. I don’t often make cream of celery soup, so I decided that it should be my first course. It was velvety smooth with the subtlety of fresh celery and not overpowered by cream. I decided to go vegetarian for my second course of gnocchi: handmade potato dumplings tossed with garlicky mustard greens, roasted tomatoes, olives and manchego. This is on their regular menu at $12.95. Mustard greens, being hearty winter fare in their own right, really hit the spot. I should have asked for a soup spoon to savor every last drop of garlicky sauce.

David had the Pork Confit: a braised pork shoulder served with oven roasted grapes, root vegetable hash and a red wine reduction. Again, this was another regular menu item at $16.95. He let me taste a cluster of roasted grapes which actually went quite well with my gnocchi. The fact that they were roasted on stem was novel, yet made perfect sense.

We shared a trio of desserts which included a chocolate tart with a lemon sauce; a jasmine tea crème brûlée; and a carrot cake with goat cheese frosting. David finished off the brûlée, while I enjoyed the carrot cake the most.

We’re glad we didn’t have to move our cars to find another place to eat and even happier that we gave Blackbird another look see. Even though it was packed when we arrived, the bar did not seem crowded nor did we feel as if we were intruding on anyone’s space. Now that I’m comfortable with the surroundings, I’m looking forward to my next visit and what Chris may have up his sleeve for spring. Oh, and thanks, Gail, for coming out and saying hello.

Blackbird, 815 West 50th Street, Minneapolis MN – 612.823.4790

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Recent Restaurants Worth Noting

January 18, 2008    |    Print Print

Saffron Restaurant, 123 North 3rd Street, Minneapolis MN
A lemony hummus with warm bread started our small plates menu. Following are some of the mezze plates we enjoyed: Bulgarian feta ($4.50) marinated with fresh oregano, peppercorns and olive oil. The cheese was crumbly on the plate and had a nice bite on the tongue. Pickled Vegetables ($3.50) including cauliflower and shaved salsify were marinated with an “English” style curry. Haloumi Cheese ($5) was served with piquillio peppers and capers. The peppers and capers were an enjoyable piquant accompaniment. Kofta Meatballs ($4.50) were served in a tomato-harissa sauce. The mint in the sauce was gave it nice zip and a refreshing taste. A small plate of Deviled Eggs ($6) with preserved tuna, capers and black olives rounded out our experience. While I was enjoying them, I was thinking a duck rillette would be very tasty in a stuffed egg.

The 112 Eatery, 112 North 3rd Street, Minneapolis MN
We started with a Meritage from Portugal: Lavradores de Feitoria, Vinhos de Quinta, SA. 2004. It had a very complex nose of black cherries and a hint of barnyard. The amuse bouche of spiced green olives and spicy/hot almonds were a delightful treat to begin the evening. The crostini with white anchovy and avocado ($8), were simple yet delicious. We each enjoyed a lamb scottadito with goats milk yogurt ($12), pounded out slightly and quickly seared on the grill. We also sampled a spicy sweet potato with honey ($6), crispy on the outside and creamy on the inside.

Cafe Maude, 5411 Penn Ave South, Minneapolis MN
As soon as I noticed confit, the Roasted Butternut Squash Soup with Tempura Duck Confit and Frisse was a must. I thought what a great idea to tempura confit and frisse. Both added a wonderful accompaniment of succulence and crispiness to the soup. The Fennel Crusted Braised Short Ribs ($22) is usually served with Roasted Garlic Baby Red Potatoes and Onion Rings. Instead we substituted the Caramelized Brussels Sprouts with Brown Butter Onions, Honey Crisp Apples and raw Red and Gold Beets ($7). The ribs were fall-off-the- bone tender, mahogany glazed with the perfect balance of fennel. The portion was enough to share with my dinner companion and still have a sweet tooth for dessert. Desserts were a Scone Bread Pudding with Ginger Ice Cream ($6) and Chocolate and Hazelnut Fried Raviolis with Pistachio Ice Cream ($7).

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Pan-Roasted Harissa Vinaigrette

January 14, 2008    |    Print Print

I recently taught a cooking class called Mid-Winter Appetizers at Cooks of Crocus Hill. It was an ambitious menu including a riff on a French Laundry hors d’voure called English Cucumber Cappellini with Pickled Oyster topped with Sterling Cavier and fresh Dill.

Another recipe was a Grilled Sardine on a bed of Roasted Beets with Fennel Marmalade and a pan-roasted Harissa Vinaigrette.

Here is the vinaigrette that I served along with the grilled sardines with roasted beets.

Pan-Roasted Harissa Vinaigrette

2 teaspoons Dijon style mustard
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed Lemon juice
2 tablespoons aged Balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon Shallots – minced
½ teaspoon Sugar
Salt and Pepper to taste
½ cup + 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (divided)
1 ½ tablespoons Harissa
1 ½ cups Parsley or Cilantro; washed, thoroughly dried and sliced

Combine first 5 ingredients, mixing well. Add salt & pepper to taste. Slowly add ½ cup of extra virgin olive oil to the mix.

Heat remaining olive oil in shallow pan to just before it begins to smoke. Add herb; then Harissa and cook until herb is bright green. Once bright green, plunge into dressing and stir well. Serve with the grilled sardines.

For those who participated in the Mid-Winter Appetizer class, it is my hope that you enjoyed it.

I will be Tackling the French Laundry at Cooks of Crocus Hill on Sunday, February 17, 2008, from 1:00 – 4:00 pm. The English Cucumber Cappellini with Pickled Oysters is on the menu again.

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Dinner at Il Vesco Vino – Bar Napoletano, Saint Paul MN

December 20, 2007    |    Print Print

Another lovely evening was spent at Il Vesco Vino – Bar Napoletano in Saint Paul, MN. It was the third visit to this Victorian Mansion, which about a year ago was transformed from a French to an Italian restaurant. According to our top notch server, Il Vesco Vino means “bishop’s wine”, which is apropos since it is just a few blocks from the Cathedral of Saint Paul and Minneapolis. Why it took me three visits to discover that tidbit of information is something I had to ponder.

This latest visit had my partner Jon and I sitting at a cozy granite topped table for two next to a fireplace and adjacent to the bar. Music of the holidays was playing, mingling with the boisterous voices of those sitting at the bar.

From experience I’ve learned that most often any restaurant that pours wine by the glass will let you have a taste if you ask. So of course I did, starting with a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, La Caldora 2005. Montepulciano is a type of grape as well as a type of red wine made from these same grapes in the Abruzzo region of east-central Italy. Up to 10% of a sangiovese grape is permitted to be added to the blend. It is typically a fruity, dry wine with soft tannins and is often consumed young. Ruby red with garnet reflections, intense with the fragrance of fruits, like black cherries and ending with vanilla nuances.

It seemed a little light for my anticipatory pork shoulder ragu so I moved on to another sample, a Rosso di Montepulciano, Poliziano 2005. It had a forward spicy nose with vivid berry fruit ending with a nice savory twist. With some fairly good tannins, it had a pleasant grip on my tongue but the fruit balanced it nicely. By this time our server was asking what I might enjoy for dinner. When I mentioned the pork ragu, she steered me toward the Nero d’Avola-Syrah Re Noto, Feudi Maccari 2005.

It’s a blend of 85% Nero d’avola with the balance being syrah. A deep plum red it gives a nose of violets and dark plums. The tannins are sharp but once past those, the dark fruit bloomed to a pleasant finish. It was a perfect match to the spices of the Riccia al Ragu ($9/half order) a pork shoulder ragu, with tomato, cream and parmigiano.

But I digress; we started dinner with a duck liver pate with crushed hazelnuts atop toasted crostini with a fried sage leaf garnish. ($5) It had none of the chalkiness that can fail paté and all of the sweet, buttery goodness with the crunch of the nuts. The Zuppa di Zucca ($6) a butternut squash with chestnut honey & crema fresca was silky smooth. It was perfectly balanced with the chestnut honey so as to not overpower the delicate flavors of the squash.

We split the Calamari with Sea Salt and Lemon ($12) sans sauce of any kind. No dipping sauce, no tartar sauce, nothing was needed. These tiny rings and tentacles were ever so lightly dusted with flour and flash fried to crispy, tender perfection. Freshly squeezed lemon juice was all that was needed to bring the sea salt to the front

While I was enjoying the Riccia al Ragu, Jon was savoring the Mare e Monte ($10/half order) a creamy bowl of rigatoni, shrimp, baby portabello mushrooms, lobster and parmigiano. Using the last couple of slices of the warm baguette as a spoon, he scooped every delicious drop of the creamy sauce.

Be sure and add Il Vesco Vino to your list of restaurants to try in 2008, if not before. If you can’t get there be sure to check out any of the wines that I mentioned earlier. They were all delicious!

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Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day

December 10, 2007    |    Print Print

Bret’s Table had an amazing day baking bread with Zoë François and Jeff Hertzberg, authors of, “Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day” published by St. Martin’s Press.

Jeff, a physician and Zoë a pastry chef, (and graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, Hyde Park, NY) struck up a conversation one day as their children were in music class. Jeff lamented how time consuming bread baking can be. He explained how he’s been tinkering with streamlining and simplifying the process for years. Fortunately, the two put their heads together to compile a book that may revolutionize home bread baking.

Though flour, yeast, salt and water have been used for centuries to make bread, the method that they have developed is extraordinary. Delicious boules, pizza dough or wonderful naan can be made in no “time” (in bread baking time). The “dough” sits for about two hours to rise with no kneading involved. Now mind you kneading bread dough is not a bad thing, but some people either don’t have the time nor the strength or dexterity for such tasks. With their method, if you want bread in 2 hours, 1 1/2 hours into the rising time, preheat you oven (along with a baking stone if you have one) to anywhere between 425 – 525 degrees depending on what your baking.

Form the dough in the your desired shape, whether it be a Boule, Baguette or Pain d’ Epi; if it’s Pizza you desire, roll out the dough, add your favorite toppings and bake them off. The dough that is not used can be stored in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. It’s ready to use when you’re ready to bake!

Tune into Minnesota Public Radio’s The Splendid Table with Lynn Rossetto Kasper on Saturday, December 15, 2007 to hear Zoë and Jeff’s bread baking success stories.

Adapted from “Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day,” by Jeff Hertzberg and Zoë François (St. Martin Press, 2007)

Time: About 5 minutes plus about 2 hours rising

1 ½ tablespoons yeast
1 ½ tablespoons kosher salt
6 ½ cups unbleached, all-purpose flour, more for dusting dough
3 cups lukewarm water
cornmeal, if using

In a large bowl or plastic container, mix yeast and salt into 3 cups lukewarm water (about 100 degrees). Stir in flour, mixing until there are no dry patches. Dough will be quite  loose. Cover, but not with an airtight lid. Let dough rise at room temperature 2 hours (or up to 5 hours).

Bake at this point or refrigerate, covered, for as long as two weeks. When ready to bake, sprinkle a little flour on dough and cut off a grapefruit-size piece with serrated knife. Turn dough in hands to lightly stretch surface, creating a rounded top and a lumpy bottom. Put dough on pizza peel sprinkled with cornmeal; let rest 40 minutes. Repeat with remaining dough or refrigerate it. (If you do not want cornmeal in your oven, place the dough on a piece of parchment paper atop your pizza peel.)

Place broiler pan on bottom of oven. Place baking stone on middle rack and turn oven to 450ºF; heat stone at that temperature for 20 minutes.

Dust dough with flour, slash top with serrated or very sharp knife three times. Slide onto stone. Pour one cup hot water into broiler pan and shut oven quickly to trap steam. Bake until well browned, about 30 minutes. Cool completely.

Yield: 4 loaves.

Variation: If not using stone, stretch rounded dough into oval and place in a greased, nonstick loaf pan. Let rest 40 minutes if fresh, an extra hour if refrigerated. Heat oven to 450ºF for 5 minutes. Place pan on middle rack. and bake.

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