August Road Trip

September 1, 2008    |    Print Print

August is the perfect time of year for a road trip and that’s exactly what we found ourselves doing on a recent Saturday morning. We headed out early to southeastern Minnesota and to the duck farm of Liz and Christian Gasset. Upon our arrival we were greeted by a couple of family dogs and a metal tree with leaves made of blue Riesling bottles. Okay you have to use your imagination but there’s a reason the bottles are from Rieslings; it’s the perfect wine to accompany foie gras!

Gasset, having grown up in the southwestern part of France, always dreamed of raising ducks for foie gras. He and Liz met while they were both in the Peace Corps and since she had gone to college in Minnesota, Caledonia was they place they decided to call home.

Over the course of a year, Gasset raises about 2400 male Muscovy ducks for Au Bon Canard foie gras. About 300 ducklings at a time arrive when they are just a day old. They spend their first week in the warmth and coziness of one of the barns. Beginning the second week they’re allowed to roam in a pasture reserved just for them. At week six they are moved to yet another grassy pasture where they spend about four months feasting on a specially designed corn and soybean mixture, plus all the grass, grubs and insects they have the pleasure of eat. In the summer, they laze under the trees and Gasset plows the snow around the barn so they have a place to catch the snow flakes in the winter.

It’s all about the love, says Gasset. This tender loving care is demonstrated as he gently talks to the ducks while he feeds them or moves them around the pasture. It is also evident in that; even the barn walls are lined with paintings depicting pastoral settings that Liz finds at flea markets. No stress means a better product which he supplies to some of the finest restaurants in the Twin Cities with tasty duck breasts, legs for confit and of course foie gras. Gasset is only one of four producers of foie gras in the United States.

After walking around the farm, we ended our tour on the deck of their farmhouse with a glass of Riesling (another bottle to add to their tree) and of course foie gras with nothing other than fresh bread from Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day.

Our leisurely visit came to an end and we bid our adieus; with Christian inviting us back anytime. From the farm, we drove to a friend’s home where we immediately headed to their wild blackberry patch. I should have remembered from my days of picking wild blackberries in Florida that it’s best to wear something other than shorts. Regardless, a few thorns didn’t detour us from gathering enough to make a batch of blackberry scones.

As the sun set behind the hills, we sat beside our friend’s vegetable garden, listening to the sounds of late summer. A lovely dinner was shared which included a Chicken and Pistachio Terrine; Maple and Soy Marinated Roasted Salmon with Black Peppercorn Crust; Seared Beef Tenderloin glazed with Pumpkin Oil and stuffed with Foie Gras; Roasted Fresh Green Beans with a Chili, Lime Aoili; Dry Rub Carolina BBQ Ribs; a Fresh Garden Salad with Roasted Beets, Beet Greens, Dinosaur Kale, Basil, Italian Parsley and Squash Blossoms; and for dessert, a Chocolate Mousse featuring a local Fromage Blanc.

After dinner, it was more good-byes before heading north back to the Twin Cities. We were reluctant leave, but the next day I was demonstrating butter cookies at the Minnesota State Fair.

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Bret’s Table at the Fair – August 24th

August 6, 2008    |    Print Print

I’ll be at the State Fair this year, teaching folks how to make a fabulous Butter Cookie using Minnesota made Pastureland butter. The two, half-hour classes will be at 10:00 am and 12:00 pm, Sunday, August 24th. The Healthy Local Foods cooking demonstrations are part of the EcoExperience in the Progress Center on the State Fairgrounds at the corner of Cosgrove and Randall.

How you may ask can butter and healthy be in the same sentence? There is evidence that dairy products from 100% pastured animals are ideal for your health. They offer you more Omega-3s – the “good” fats, and fewer “bad” fats. These “good fats” raise your HDL. Also, CLA (conjugated linoleic acid) is a potent antioxidant, a fatty acid most abundant in grass-fed products.

Because living grass is richer in vitamins E, A, and beta-carotene than stored hay or standard dairy diets, butter from dairy cows grazing on fresh pasture is also richer in these important nutrients. The naturally golden color of grass-fed butter is a clear indication of its superior nutritional value.

If none of this evidence is convincing, butter produced with milk from grass-fed cows just tastes so darn much better! So grab a glass of milk or a cup o’joe and head over to the Progress Center on Sunday, August 24 for a cookie class with Bret’s Table.

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Get your Hands on Some Dough

June 5, 2008    |    Print Print
Zoë François and I were recently on KARE 11’s Showcase Minnesota. We demonstrated how to make the bread dough for Pain d’Epi from the book she co-authored with Jeff Hertzberg called, “Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day: The Discovery that Revolutionizes Home Baking”, Saint Martin’s Press. Go to the Press page on my website and follow the link to Showcase Minnesota to get the recipe and to see the video on shaping the Pain d’Epi.
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Sure Signs of Spring

May 11, 2008    |    Print Print

Weather conditions can bring joy or destruction. Luckily in our case these past few days we’ve had the perfect amount of rain, humidity, sun, wind and soil temperatures to provide a bounty of morel mushrooms. The only drawback, at least for me, is finding the little buggers. But a romp in the woods makes up for any drawbacks.

We took a road trip to southern Minnesota recently too hunt for the elusive fungi. Arriving at the ancestral home of a friend, we immediately headed up a rather steep hill, beyond a yet to be planted field.

Other friends were already in the woods patiently looking both to the sky and the ground. Looking upwards allows you to notice the dying elm trees. If you head towards the tree, with any luck you will find your prize. Sometimes above the trunk other times below. There never seems to be any rhyme or reason. Something about the symbiotic relationship between the dying tree and the ground around it allows for the growing of morels. When you do find one, be sure to pinch or cut it off just above the ground and if possible carry your treasure in a mesh bag. This allows for air circulation and the dispersal of morel spores.

Taking a moment to catch my breath, I couldn’t help but notice the trees overlooking the valley were just starting to bud out. Jack-in-the-Pulpits were profuse yet the Trilliums had yet to bloom. What looked like wild Columbine and Violets were in full color and the ferns were just beginning to unfurl. Making too much noise, we startled a couple of wild turkeys and they ended up flying across the field.

Bringing our bounty back to the house, we all pitched in and prepared dinner. It included a creamy morel mushroom and wild onion risotto; sautéed foie gras on seared beef tenderloin with a truffle oil drizzle, smashed potatoes, cold slaw and grilled asparagus.

We were reminded once again that perfect fresh ingredients, simply prepared, shared with good friends and family are a foretaste of heaven. It didn’t hurt either to be introduced to many delightful wines, including a red from Spain called Juan Gils. It was fruity, with the nose of leather and barnyard, ending with pepper and spice. What a perfecting pairing with the tenderloin. Dessert was a Sherry pound cake with fresh strawberries and whipped cream.

Many morel hunters keep their favorite hunting spots under-wraps. I’d love to share my spot with you but alas it was on private property, so it wouldn’t do any good for me to tell you anyway. If you can’t get to the woods, at least hunt for some at your nearest market. These gnarly jewels won’t be around for long.

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Heidi’s Minneapolis

April 28, 2008    |    Print Print

Four of us finally snagged a spot at Heidi’s Minneapolis recently. Well we didn’t technically snag one as we made reservations early in the week for a Sunday evening 6:45p dinner. Upon arriving I made a note to self: ask what the dress code is when making a reservation.

We walked in wearing business casual but the hostess was wearing jeans. Geez, I wanted to wear jeans. Though within a half hour we all wished we were wearing Bermuda shorts as it was so blankety, blank, blank HOT. Even our waiter was hot; but we weren’t ready for that prelude to summer.

After an extended perusal of the menu and a couple of samples of wine we landed on a Macon Lugny, “Les Charmes” 2006 Chardonnay from Burgundy ($24). It was light and crisp with hints of green apple and pear; having a pleasant mineral finish.

Knowing that Chef Woodman was at the stove, we decided on a variety of appetizers including a tri-colored cauliflower soup. The hot cream was brought table-side in a ceramic tea pot and poured over the other ingredients. It was amazing how the different varieties of cauliflower each had their own distinct flavor. We also shared a Spinach salad with a porcini mushroom vinaigrette, pink peppercorns and shaved Asiago (6.50) and a crêpe with foie gras, curried Beluga black lentils and hibiscus syrup ($9). The crêpe was a perfect balance between the creaminess of the foie gras, saltiness of the lentils and the sweetness of the hibiscus syrup. I thought an unusual ingredient combination but in the end a classic flavor profile.

Woodman has also added an intermezzo course to the dinner menu which could be either the Shefzilla’s or a Chef’s Surprise. The night we were there, the Surprise would be $14. With the silver lid removed at the table we were presented with 5 plump oysters, topped with mined shallots in an arugula broth. It reminded me of an Oysters Rockefeller stepped up a couple of notches.

Our entrees included handmade ravioli stuffed with beets, with goat cheese and chives, served on a bed of truffle scented beet and fennel broth ($11). We were informed that the chef omitted the beet broth component as it was just too overpowering, substituting a parmesan ‘foam’ instead. The vegetarian “Bolognese” porcini stew on fresh pappardelle, with Swiss chard, Grana Padano, and Armando Manni’s olive oil ($9/$12) was chock full of mushrooms and chard. The Grana Padano was delicious but didn’t have enough salt to balance the remaining flavors. The Atlantic lobster soup with lotus root, bamboo shoot, scallion, savory cabbage and vinaigre de citron was a bowl large enough for an entrée. As good as they all were, I wished I had ordered the sautéed Australian sea bass which the fourth in our party savored. It was enjoyed with a parsley puree, parsnips and creamy mussel foam ($18). The one taste that I managed to pilfer was melt in your mouth heaven, perfectly seared and delicious.

Had we not all be glistening and ready to faint, we would have delved into the desserts starting with the Dreamsicle Crème Brûlée ($5); Mango Sorbet with Leche Cake ($5.5); Vanilla Poached Pear with Yogurt and Pistachio ($5.5) and finishing with the Chocolate Cake with Espresso Ice Cream ($7.21). If I missed any details, I’m blaming it on the heat

Hopefully, the AC will be functioning by the time summer really hits, or we’ll plan for a cool evening the next time we visit this great neighborhood restaurant.

Heidi’s Minneapolis
819 W 50th St
Minneapolis, MN 55419
612.354.3512
www.heidismpls.com

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Chocolate Techniques

April 6, 2008    |    Print Print

There are not many activities more fulfilling than spending three hours with an extraordinary Chocolatier and six eager students on a Saturday afternoon learning the secrets of crafting artisan chocolates. That’s exactly what we did again recently with Brian McElrath owner of B.T. McElrath Chocolatier.

In the first class, we delved into the scientific aspects of chocolate; its crystallization properties and the art of tempering using various methods.

It was eye-opening to realize that the microwave can be used for more than heating up last night’s pot-roast. And I don’t even use it to make popcorn. But I digress.

The microwave is actually a great appliance for melting chocolate. One does have to be careful, so as not to scorch it, but with this appliance there is no worrying about introducing water to the chocolate accidentally as may occur with the double boiler method. If you think oil and water don’t mix, trying to mix chocolate and water is even worse.Just use 50% power in short intervals with lots of stirring in between.

We also learned that every environment introduces different variables; humidity, temperature of the room, even the number of people working in the space has an affect on the tempering of chocolate.

After mastering the tempering process the first week, this second class allowed us to focus our attention on enrobing techniques, adding designs using a dipping fork and using transfers for adding designs. We also made three different types of ganache: Dark Rum, Chambord with Caramel and Orange; which we used these to fill the molds after having learned how to “shell” them. Shelling is the art of filling a mold with tempered chocolate and pouring it out at just the correct time, to leave a coating or “shell” in the impression which you later fill with ganache and “bottom” with more chocolate.

Each student had a chance to practice each aspect of the process, while enjoying an afternoon of conviviality. At the end of the day everyone was able to take home a bundle of chocolates that were made to share with friends and family.

Bret’s Table hopes to convince Brian to return this Autumn for more chocolate classes both beginning and advanced.

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Bret’s Table Welcomed Suvir Saran and Zoë François

February 27, 2008    |    Print Print

Six wonderful and gracious students spent a delightful evening recently with Suvir Saran and Zoë François at Bret’s Table. A lively conversation ensued including the topic of food, but of course in true Mr. Saran form we also covered fashion and politics to name a few. Luckily at Bret’s Table we are not confined to political correctness as everyone is welcomed at the table.

The evening began with a glass of estate bottled wine by Laurentina; a Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. It’s a DOC wine of the Marches region of Italy. It’s a blend of Verdicchio, with the possible addition of Malvasia Toscana and Trebbiano Toscano, 15% maximum. A ripe peach and nectarine nose leads to a wonderful weight on the palate combined with expressive acidity and beautifully ripe fruit; the finish ending with a citrusy zing.

Suvir prepared a Lahori Chicken Curry with Whole Spices & Potatoes, Cauliflower Sautéed with Green Peppers, Tomato & Yogurt, Mango, Pineapple and Grapefruit Salad with Chile-Lime Vinaigrette and Cardamom-scented Rice Cream with Saffron Drizzle. Zoë taught us all how to make naan, using her bread dough from “Artisan Breads in Five Minutes a Day”. We also sampled the Domaine Zind Humbrecht; a Pinot Gris from Alsace. This wine was fantastic paired with the Lahori Chicken with a nose of lemon and honey yet not overly sweet.

If you don’t have a copy of Suvir’s books, Indian Home Cooking and American Masala nor Zoë’s book, Artisan Bread in Five Minutes Day, you should go right now and purchase all three.

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We Tackled the French Laundry

February 18, 2008    |    Print Print

I was fortunate enough to teach a class full of eager and interested students at Cooks of Crocus Hill recently. The topic being ‘Tackling the French Laundry” based on Thomas Keller’s cookbook titled The French Laundry Cookbook. A couple of students have had the great fortune of eating at his fine establishment in Napa Valley and his restaurant in New York called Per Se.

I haven’t had the opportunity to visit either one but I am totally on board with Mr. Keller’s philosophy of cooking. Here is a short paragraph from his book.

“Cooking is not about convenience and it’s not about shortcuts. The recipes in this book are about wanting to take the time to do something that I think is priceless. Our hunger for the twenty-minute gourmet meal, for one-pot ease and pre-washed , precut ingredients has severed our lifeline to the satisfactions of cooking. Take your time. Take a long time. Move slowly and deliberately and with great attention.”

I enjoyed his book to such an extent that I decided to teach a class based on some of his recipes. They included a Parmesan Cup with Goat Cheese Mousse; Pickled Oyster with Cucumber Cappellini and Caviar; Poached Shrimp with Apple Salsa; Potato Gnocchi with Gorgonzola Sauce and Lemon Sabayon Tart with Pine Nut Crust and Mascarpone Honey Cream.

Many showed interest in having me teach another class. Next time perhaps, it will be a participation class using other recipes from his book.

Below are some photos that one of the students took during class.

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