I was lucky enough to grab a seat at a recent class at Cooks of Crocus Hill, in Saint Paul MN,
taught by Alice Medrich, the queen of all things chocolate. (my title, not hers, because of her
award-winning book Bittersweet, among others.) Her new book, Pure Dessert, (Artisan, $35)
has just one chapter devoted to that particular elixir. This latest work celebrates the essence of
the “ingredient”, where she looks at everyday ingredients in new ways and delves into the
discovery of the new - those ingredients that may not typically be found in desserts or in some
cases may not be found in the typical American pantry but easily found at well-stocked grocers.
Medrich divides the book by ingredient instead of utilizing the usual Table of Contents, which so
often has chapters like “Pies, Tarts, Cakes.” The first chapter is entitled, “The Flavors of Milk.”
(Milk, of all things!) and the ingredients made from milk, such as butter, cream and fresh
cheeses. She inspires you to seek out the best that is available; and nudges you for example, to
try different butters, whether you’re making her Twice-baked Shortbread or Desiré’s Brioche.
Ice cream is not made exclusively from heavy cream in this book, for Medrich has discovered
that cream sometimes subdues the flavor of fruit, and fruit should be primary to butterfat when it
comes to ice cream. Therefore, bright fruity flavors take a leaner base. And, being the sleuth
that she is, Medrich came to realize that combining cooked and fresh fruit seduces more flavor
notes out of a strawberry, for instance. Another topic she has pondered is why commercial ice
creams are exclusively sweet. Why can’t there be tart flavors? Where are the bitter flavors?
How about the nutty flavors for example, of sour cream? – just add milk, a little cornstarch and
chill. The results are sublime!
In chapter two, “The Flavors of Grain, Nuts and Seeds” old ingredients are new again. Medrich
reverses the notion that whole grains and “alternative” flours should be relegated to dense breads
and “wholesome” granola bars. As she points out, botanically speaking, grains and for that matter
seeds, are nuts. So it makes perfect sense that a toasted whole grain will taste and have the
aroma of a nut.
taught by Alice Medrich, the queen of all things chocolate. (my title, not hers, because of her
award-winning book Bittersweet, among others.) Her new book, Pure Dessert, (Artisan, $35)
has just one chapter devoted to that particular elixir. This latest work celebrates the essence of
the “ingredient”, where she looks at everyday ingredients in new ways and delves into the
discovery of the new - those ingredients that may not typically be found in desserts or in some
cases may not be found in the typical American pantry but easily found at well-stocked grocers.
Medrich divides the book by ingredient instead of utilizing the usual Table of Contents, which so
often has chapters like “Pies, Tarts, Cakes.” The first chapter is entitled, “The Flavors of Milk.”
(Milk, of all things!) and the ingredients made from milk, such as butter, cream and fresh
cheeses. She inspires you to seek out the best that is available; and nudges you for example, to
try different butters, whether you’re making her Twice-baked Shortbread or Desiré’s Brioche.
Ice cream is not made exclusively from heavy cream in this book, for Medrich has discovered
that cream sometimes subdues the flavor of fruit, and fruit should be primary to butterfat when it
comes to ice cream. Therefore, bright fruity flavors take a leaner base. And, being the sleuth
that she is, Medrich came to realize that combining cooked and fresh fruit seduces more flavor
notes out of a strawberry, for instance. Another topic she has pondered is why commercial ice
creams are exclusively sweet. Why can’t there be tart flavors? Where are the bitter flavors?
How about the nutty flavors for example, of sour cream? – just add milk, a little cornstarch and
chill. The results are sublime!
In chapter two, “The Flavors of Grain, Nuts and Seeds” old ingredients are new again. Medrich
reverses the notion that whole grains and “alternative” flours should be relegated to dense breads
and “wholesome” granola bars. As she points out, botanically speaking, grains and for that matter
seeds, are nuts. So it makes perfect sense that a toasted whole grain will taste and have the
aroma of a nut.
| September 2007 |
|
She also includes information about uses for long-forgotten or little-used grains. For
example, she utilizes an ancient type of wheat call kamut. It’s related to the durum variety
and is believed to have been around since the Egyptians. Kamut for them was the name for
“wheat”. The Kamut Pound Cake that she demonstrated in class was buttery, though it only
had 6 ounces of butter in it. It had a beautiful golden color and a fine crumb. We had it
naked so to speak but I think it would be wonderful with whatever berries or fruits are in
season along with a dollop of crème fraîche or whipped mascarpone. Or, as with all butter
cakes, wait a couple of days (if there’s any left) then toast it and spread some butter on it.
Sprinkle it with a little coarse salt, a few grindings of pepper and enjoy it with a cup of tea.
According to Medrich that’s how pound cake is served at Alice Waters’, Chez Panisse
Restaurant.
example, she utilizes an ancient type of wheat call kamut. It’s related to the durum variety
and is believed to have been around since the Egyptians. Kamut for them was the name for
“wheat”. The Kamut Pound Cake that she demonstrated in class was buttery, though it only
had 6 ounces of butter in it. It had a beautiful golden color and a fine crumb. We had it
naked so to speak but I think it would be wonderful with whatever berries or fruits are in
season along with a dollop of crème fraîche or whipped mascarpone. Or, as with all butter
cakes, wait a couple of days (if there’s any left) then toast it and spread some butter on it.
Sprinkle it with a little coarse salt, a few grindings of pepper and enjoy it with a cup of tea.
According to Medrich that’s how pound cake is served at Alice Waters’, Chez Panisse
Restaurant.
Pastry chefs as a general lot can be an exacting bunch. Ingredients generally need to be weighed
and not just any ingredient can be substituted for another. However, when it comes to using fruit
in desserts, as Medrich points out in the “Flavors of Fruits” chapter, our exactitude should be
tempered. Not all fruits are created equal and the sugary sweet blueberry today may be Mr. tart
tomorrow.
When using fruit, it must be tasted to determine its sweet versus tart components. A little more
honey here a little less sugar there is required to keep the taste of the fruit paramount. And stop
with using only white granulated sugar. Take Medrich’s suggestion and try a dark brown sugar
or a raw sugar such as light muscovado or grated pilonicillo in for example, the Dried Fruit and
Nut Cake.
Not only does she step outside the box when suggesting different sweeteners, she devotes an
entire chapter on “The Flavors of Honey and Sugar”. She does not offer any health benefit for
using raw sugars or honey over granulated but suggests variations only for the hedonism of taste
and clarity of flavor. If you haven’t made caramels in a while, now is the time, using a regional
or varietal honey from your own farmers market. Or, whip up the Pecan Penuche Shortbread
with rum and grated pilloncillo or light muscovado sugar.
Herbs and spices that were thought to be exotic just a few years ago, now take center stage in
“The Flavors of Herbs and Spices, Flowers and Leaves”. There’s more than one shortbread
recipe in this book, but the Aniseed and Almond Shortbread, stands as a winner. With a mere
eight ingredients, Medrich uses several in this recipe that showcase everything she touts: aniseed,
whole wheat flour and turbinao or demerara sugars. With the extra nuttiness of the whole wheat
flour along with the almonds, of course it’s a perfect companion to a glass of red wine.
While vanilla typically plays second fiddle or the supporting role, Medrich makes it the star in her
Vanilla Bean Tuiles. She doesn’t mean using a vanilla extract either, but instead using the real
deal -- a ground vanilla bean. I can say from experience that using the "bean" really packs a
punch. So, pull that vanilla bean from the sugar canister, whiz it in the spice blender and make a
batch of these decadent delights.
Last but not least, Medrich delves into the world of the “Flavors of Wine, Beer, and Spirits”. If
you enjoy a cold Guinness beer, why not add it to an ice cream base. It’s cold, sweet, tart, nutty
and yeasty all at the same time. Or, savor a vin santo as an aperitif as well as use it as the liquid
for the Vin Santo Chiffon Cake that she has adapted from the Chez Panisse Desserts cookbook.
Gratins move beyond the savory with her Cherry and Kirsch Gratin bathed in kirsch and topped
with a white-wine-and-kirsch-laced custard.
Pure Desserts is full of ideas and suggestions in how to use ingredients in new and novel, yet well
thought out and researched ways. The recipes are well written yet easy to master with perfect
results. It is an inspiration for both the novice and experienced cook. If nothing else, be inspired
by the beautiful full-color photographs while you watch someone else prepare your favorite
picked right from the book!
and not just any ingredient can be substituted for another. However, when it comes to using fruit
in desserts, as Medrich points out in the “Flavors of Fruits” chapter, our exactitude should be
tempered. Not all fruits are created equal and the sugary sweet blueberry today may be Mr. tart
tomorrow.
When using fruit, it must be tasted to determine its sweet versus tart components. A little more
honey here a little less sugar there is required to keep the taste of the fruit paramount. And stop
with using only white granulated sugar. Take Medrich’s suggestion and try a dark brown sugar
or a raw sugar such as light muscovado or grated pilonicillo in for example, the Dried Fruit and
Nut Cake.
Not only does she step outside the box when suggesting different sweeteners, she devotes an
entire chapter on “The Flavors of Honey and Sugar”. She does not offer any health benefit for
using raw sugars or honey over granulated but suggests variations only for the hedonism of taste
and clarity of flavor. If you haven’t made caramels in a while, now is the time, using a regional
or varietal honey from your own farmers market. Or, whip up the Pecan Penuche Shortbread
with rum and grated pilloncillo or light muscovado sugar.
Herbs and spices that were thought to be exotic just a few years ago, now take center stage in
“The Flavors of Herbs and Spices, Flowers and Leaves”. There’s more than one shortbread
recipe in this book, but the Aniseed and Almond Shortbread, stands as a winner. With a mere
eight ingredients, Medrich uses several in this recipe that showcase everything she touts: aniseed,
whole wheat flour and turbinao or demerara sugars. With the extra nuttiness of the whole wheat
flour along with the almonds, of course it’s a perfect companion to a glass of red wine.
While vanilla typically plays second fiddle or the supporting role, Medrich makes it the star in her
Vanilla Bean Tuiles. She doesn’t mean using a vanilla extract either, but instead using the real
deal -- a ground vanilla bean. I can say from experience that using the "bean" really packs a
punch. So, pull that vanilla bean from the sugar canister, whiz it in the spice blender and make a
batch of these decadent delights.
Last but not least, Medrich delves into the world of the “Flavors of Wine, Beer, and Spirits”. If
you enjoy a cold Guinness beer, why not add it to an ice cream base. It’s cold, sweet, tart, nutty
and yeasty all at the same time. Or, savor a vin santo as an aperitif as well as use it as the liquid
for the Vin Santo Chiffon Cake that she has adapted from the Chez Panisse Desserts cookbook.
Gratins move beyond the savory with her Cherry and Kirsch Gratin bathed in kirsch and topped
with a white-wine-and-kirsch-laced custard.
Pure Desserts is full of ideas and suggestions in how to use ingredients in new and novel, yet well
thought out and researched ways. The recipes are well written yet easy to master with perfect
results. It is an inspiration for both the novice and experienced cook. If nothing else, be inspired
by the beautiful full-color photographs while you watch someone else prepare your favorite
picked right from the book!
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