I had the opportunity over the Labor Day weekend to return to Louisville KY to visit my dear
friend Randy whom I've known since our undergraduate college years. He lives and works in the
Germantown neighborhood which in the southern part of the city. It's a picturesque
neighborhood near Cherokee Park, where stately trees line narrow streets. WWII bungalows, sit
next to 1950's ramblers as red brick four-square craftsman homes with wrap around front
porches give way to stately mansions.
Though it was a short visit, I was ready to venture out into the local food scene and Randy aimed
to satiate my adventurous spirit. The first evening we ate at Lynn's Paradise Café, a converted
grocery store turned 1950's kitsch café complete with painted cement bears and roosters in the
parking lot. We were greeted with a gift shop just inside the front door, one that reminded me of
the interstate gift-shops with which I grew up in Florida. They sold snow globes (snow globes in
FL?), funky sunglasses and seashell key-chains.
We entered the restaurant through the gift shop and were greeted with visual overload. Crystal
chandeliers hung over the bar as Chinese lanterns illuminated the dining room. The laminate top
kitchen tables glowed with the past winners (and I think some losers) of the Ugly Lamp Contest
that Lynn sponsored at the Kentucky State Fair every year. Christmas tree lights wrapped around
the center support poles, while two large tree trunks and their branches anchored the center of
the room, each tree with ever-changing decor. Most recently one was decorated with pre-
enjoyed tea bags hung like Christmas tree ornaments.
Since it was the height of tomato season, we each savored a rather large Bloody Mary, with a
skewer lined with various black and green olives along with a peppercorncini and cherry pepper --
practically a meal in itself. To continue the tomato theme we devoured an appetizer of hand-
breaded fried green tomatoes served with a tangy remoulade and crisp field greens.
Friends of Randy suggested that we have the walnut-crusted chicken but I decided on a Louisville
specialty called the "Hot Brown". This local specialty originated at the historic Brown Hotel in the
late 1800's. Lynn's rendition starts with house roasted turkey breast baked on sourdough bread,
with Mornay sauce, bacon, tomato, Monterey Jack and cheddar cheeses. I swear it was served
in an 10" cast iron skillet but somehow I managed to finish off the better part of it.
Randy enjoyed a Paradise Burger — a 1/2 lb of freshly ground Kentucky grass-fed beef grilled
medium rare. It was served on a whole wheat Kaiser roll with lettuce, tomato and red onion. As
it is one of his favorites when he visits Lynn's, he wasn't disappointed.
Lynn's Paradise Café is a short cab ride and only 5 minutes from Downtown. The Road-Food
gurus Jane and Michael Stern recommend it and I would as well. Check out Lynn's Paradise
Café, at 984 Barret Avenue, Louisville KY.
friend Randy whom I've known since our undergraduate college years. He lives and works in the
Germantown neighborhood which in the southern part of the city. It's a picturesque
neighborhood near Cherokee Park, where stately trees line narrow streets. WWII bungalows, sit
next to 1950's ramblers as red brick four-square craftsman homes with wrap around front
porches give way to stately mansions.
Though it was a short visit, I was ready to venture out into the local food scene and Randy aimed
to satiate my adventurous spirit. The first evening we ate at Lynn's Paradise Café, a converted
grocery store turned 1950's kitsch café complete with painted cement bears and roosters in the
parking lot. We were greeted with a gift shop just inside the front door, one that reminded me of
the interstate gift-shops with which I grew up in Florida. They sold snow globes (snow globes in
FL?), funky sunglasses and seashell key-chains.
We entered the restaurant through the gift shop and were greeted with visual overload. Crystal
chandeliers hung over the bar as Chinese lanterns illuminated the dining room. The laminate top
kitchen tables glowed with the past winners (and I think some losers) of the Ugly Lamp Contest
that Lynn sponsored at the Kentucky State Fair every year. Christmas tree lights wrapped around
the center support poles, while two large tree trunks and their branches anchored the center of
the room, each tree with ever-changing decor. Most recently one was decorated with pre-
enjoyed tea bags hung like Christmas tree ornaments.
Since it was the height of tomato season, we each savored a rather large Bloody Mary, with a
skewer lined with various black and green olives along with a peppercorncini and cherry pepper --
practically a meal in itself. To continue the tomato theme we devoured an appetizer of hand-
breaded fried green tomatoes served with a tangy remoulade and crisp field greens.
Friends of Randy suggested that we have the walnut-crusted chicken but I decided on a Louisville
specialty called the "Hot Brown". This local specialty originated at the historic Brown Hotel in the
late 1800's. Lynn's rendition starts with house roasted turkey breast baked on sourdough bread,
with Mornay sauce, bacon, tomato, Monterey Jack and cheddar cheeses. I swear it was served
in an 10" cast iron skillet but somehow I managed to finish off the better part of it.
Randy enjoyed a Paradise Burger — a 1/2 lb of freshly ground Kentucky grass-fed beef grilled
medium rare. It was served on a whole wheat Kaiser roll with lettuce, tomato and red onion. As
it is one of his favorites when he visits Lynn's, he wasn't disappointed.
Lynn's Paradise Café is a short cab ride and only 5 minutes from Downtown. The Road-Food
gurus Jane and Michael Stern recommend it and I would as well. Check out Lynn's Paradise
Café, at 984 Barret Avenue, Louisville KY.
| September 2007 |
|
The next evening we enjoyed an evening at Jack
Fry's Restaurant. The original namesake and
owner, Jack Fry, started this neighborhood tavern
with the repeal of Prohibition in 1933 and ran it as
a local institution until the late 1970s. Since then
the neighborhood has gone upscale and the new
owners have taken Jack Fry's there as well with
linens, Reidel and superb service.
While enjoying a wonderful 2001 Edmund’s –
Saint John Shiraz, we perused the small but well
executed menu. Initially, I had decided on the
sautéed shrimp in a red eye gravy with shiitake
mushrooms and tomatoes, served over creamy
grits, while Randy had determined that his palate
Fry's Restaurant. The original namesake and
owner, Jack Fry, started this neighborhood tavern
with the repeal of Prohibition in 1933 and ran it as
a local institution until the late 1970s. Since then
the neighborhood has gone upscale and the new
owners have taken Jack Fry's there as well with
linens, Reidel and superb service.
While enjoying a wonderful 2001 Edmund’s –
Saint John Shiraz, we perused the small but well
executed menu. Initially, I had decided on the
sautéed shrimp in a red eye gravy with shiitake
mushrooms and tomatoes, served over creamy
grits, while Randy had determined that his palate
was savoring the classic escargots broiled with garlic butter and croutons. That all changed due to the charm of our waiter who
recommended the pan seared diver scallops in a brown butter sauce finished with white truffle oil and the bacon wrapped
Medjool dates stuffed with chorizo sausage and Capriole Farm goat cheese with a smoky tomato sauce. The dates were
especially exquisite with the smoky spice of the Shiraz.
On earlier occasions, Randy had the warm brie salad and suggested it was a must try. I obliged, and in hindsight it was rich and
large enough that we could have split one between us. The crisp Bibb lettuce leaves were lightly dressed in a lemon vinaigrette
with the cheese perfectly melted over them and topped with a generous sprinkling of sliced almonds.
With assurance from our attentive waiter that the lobster campanelle was cooked to perfection, I ordered it and was not
disappointed. The large morsels of lobster tail were tossed with perfectly al dente campanelle, nicoise olives, bacon, sun-dried-
tomatoes, jalapeños and broccoli rabe in a rosemary and shallot infused tomato concasse, all topped with Parmigiano Reggiano.
My only regret was that the Parmigiano was not freshly shaved but pre-shredded. Randy enjoyed a perfectly grilled medium rare
center cut beef filet with Parma Prosciutto, asparagus, sage beurre blanc and a crispy potato cake, finished again with Parmigiano-
Reggiano.
I believe it was the salad that put me over the edge gastronomically, but nevertheless my impending satiation wasn’t going to stop
me from sampling dessert. Being the chocolate fanatic that I am (and the fact that I was in the midst of the ever so brief fig
season), I had my eye on the Chocolate Truffle Torte served with figs marinated in an aged balsamic and Ruby Port reduction
and candied walnuts. It was a classic pairing of dark chocolate richness cut beautifully with the port reduction. Of course I
twisted Randy’s arm to taste his peach cobbler as it was peach season as well. Local summer peaches were nestled in a warm
toffee filling under a light-as-air biscuit crust and served with house made vanilla ice cream. The desserts were a perfect ending
to a delicious meal. If you're in Louisville check out Jack Fry's Restaurant, 1007 Bardstown Road.Louisville KY. It's not far from
Lynn's Paradise Café
recommended the pan seared diver scallops in a brown butter sauce finished with white truffle oil and the bacon wrapped
Medjool dates stuffed with chorizo sausage and Capriole Farm goat cheese with a smoky tomato sauce. The dates were
especially exquisite with the smoky spice of the Shiraz.
On earlier occasions, Randy had the warm brie salad and suggested it was a must try. I obliged, and in hindsight it was rich and
large enough that we could have split one between us. The crisp Bibb lettuce leaves were lightly dressed in a lemon vinaigrette
with the cheese perfectly melted over them and topped with a generous sprinkling of sliced almonds.
With assurance from our attentive waiter that the lobster campanelle was cooked to perfection, I ordered it and was not
disappointed. The large morsels of lobster tail were tossed with perfectly al dente campanelle, nicoise olives, bacon, sun-dried-
tomatoes, jalapeños and broccoli rabe in a rosemary and shallot infused tomato concasse, all topped with Parmigiano Reggiano.
My only regret was that the Parmigiano was not freshly shaved but pre-shredded. Randy enjoyed a perfectly grilled medium rare
center cut beef filet with Parma Prosciutto, asparagus, sage beurre blanc and a crispy potato cake, finished again with Parmigiano-
Reggiano.
I believe it was the salad that put me over the edge gastronomically, but nevertheless my impending satiation wasn’t going to stop
me from sampling dessert. Being the chocolate fanatic that I am (and the fact that I was in the midst of the ever so brief fig
season), I had my eye on the Chocolate Truffle Torte served with figs marinated in an aged balsamic and Ruby Port reduction
and candied walnuts. It was a classic pairing of dark chocolate richness cut beautifully with the port reduction. Of course I
twisted Randy’s arm to taste his peach cobbler as it was peach season as well. Local summer peaches were nestled in a warm
toffee filling under a light-as-air biscuit crust and served with house made vanilla ice cream. The desserts were a perfect ending
to a delicious meal. If you're in Louisville check out Jack Fry's Restaurant, 1007 Bardstown Road.Louisville KY. It's not far from
Lynn's Paradise Café
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